Scented Musings

Yet another BPAL post! These were purchased from the BPAL forum. Many thanks to bygraveyardlight, she's a carnival, LavenderCoffee, rivetted, and artisjok for these!

Mouth So Sweet, So Poisonous (Wild plum, crystallized honey, opium pod, bourbon vanilla, crushed poisonous berries)

Preliminary notes: Not getting any of the Vampire scents when they were released for Halloween in 2021 was always a bit of a regret of mine. This one in particular was on the top of my list for that set, so imagine my surprise when I spotted this in BGL's sales post! I was supposed to be on a no-buy until this year's Halloween release after my monstrous Christmas order, but I couldn't resist.

In bottle: Delicious honeyed berries and plum. I was a bit worried that the berries were going to be candy-like or otherwise too sweet, but they're balanced perfectly here. This kind of smells like a spring version of In Night When All Colors to Black Are Cast to me. Absolutely befitting of the vampire theme.

On skin: On skin, this has a hidden jammy pine note for the first few minutes, which then recedes to make way for the purple berries, plum, and opium incense. It has a very translucent quality to it, like colored glass or tree sap. This isn't quite as dark as I had expected it to be, but it's almost ethereal in a sinister way.

Verdict: 4.25 potentially evil faeries out of 5.


Secret Donuts (Glazed donuts, chocolate frosted donuts, maple bars)

Preliminary notes: I have tried multiple donut scents at this point in my perfume hobby journey, and none of them have been as accurate as I'd liked. I do love Apple Cider Donuts, but it's more heavy on the apple than the donut. Maple is also a note that isn't seen much in my collection. Chocolate notes are very hit or miss for me, often being misses more often than not, so we'll see how that goes.

In bottle: It's actually wild how much this smells like the chocolate and maple glazes that are on certain types of donuts. I don't get much of the donut note itself, but wow.

On skin: This goes a little resinous on me, which I'm assuming is because there's probably cocoa absolute in here, which tends to lean almost incense-y to my nose. The donut note comes out a bit, and the maple mixes with the chocolate beautifully. This is sweet but not borderline saccharine like I had expected. I usually stay away from chocolate, as previously stated, but I really like this. As it wears, the cakey dough aspect of the donuts comes out more, and it's sublime.

Verdict: 4.5 oversized chocolate-glazed donuts out of 5.


Wayfaring Stranger (Footstep dust, rusted keys, raw tobacco, whiskey, coconut shells, candle wax)

Preliminary notes: It's the rust and candle wax notes for me. I seem to be drawn to metallic notes this year, and mixing them with wax sounds really interesting (which is exactly why I bought Soichi when I placed my Christmas order at the end of the year). Something about this note lineup screams Fallout to me. After purchasing, I read a review that drew parallels between this and Quintessence of Dust, which is one of my favorite BPAL scents.

In bottle: My god, that metallic note is strong, which is exactly what I was hoping for. The dust and candle wax do indeed harken back to Quintessence of Dust, but this is decidedly more severe and foreboding. There's something camphorous in here as well, maybe pine. It's almost mentholated. I get the booziness and sweetness from the whiskey as well.

On skin: The whiskey note in this is very potent when wet. Beneath that, there's a bit of the coconut shell and metal playing with the tobacco, but it's very well blended and hard to discern individual notes. It's definitely got a spooky speakeasy vibe to it, or like an old, dingy dive bar in a post-apocalyptic setting.

Verdict: 4 vats of whiskey out of 5.


Poisson d'Avril (Lenten rose, crested iris, Virginia bluebell, primrose, moss phlox, blue crocus, daffodil, dewy tulip, sugar blossom, honey)

Preliminary notes: This sounds so delightfully springtime-y. Straight florals aren't my usual fare, but I know I'm going to be craving this kind of thing once the weather starts warming up in a few months, and alas- most of my spring-y oils are still in storage elsewhere.

In bottle: A massive bouquet of pink, purple, and blue flowers. This reminds me of what I remember Alkemia's Blue Ridge Skyline (RIP) smelling like; a cheery, springtime floral.

On skin: Largely the same on skin, though the sugar and honey notes come out more. My partner said this smelled like an old folks' home to him, but I don't get that at all. It is a bit soapy, but not in an overwhelming way. Mostly, it's just springtime-y florals with a bit of sweetness.

Verdict: 4 fresh bouquets out of 5.


On Freedom (Frankincense and myrrh smoke, silver musk, ambergris accord, ti leaf, benzoin, violet ash)

Preliminary notes: This sounds very ethereal and haunted. I don't know what "violet ash" is, but I'm assuming violet combined with an ash note. Wild.

In bottle: Beautiful rain-dappled violet in the bottle. This smells very somber and contemplative, like picking wildflowers and placing them at the grave of a loved one, reflecting on their memory as you do so.

On skin: Largely the same on skin. There's what almost smells like a hidden lily note in here, which I'm assuming is the ti leaf in conjunction with something else. It has an almost effervescent quality to it, like floral fizz. I didn't expect this to be such a delicate, almost sad scent, but it's beautiful. Elegant and haunting. The rain-dotted aspect of this fades a little bit into the wear time and is replaced by soft resins and the barest hint of smoke. This actually kind of reminds me of a much less ashy, sweeter cousin of Serge Lutens' De Profundis, which was one of my favorite non-indie scents back in the day.

Verdict: 5 solemn flowers out of 5. I adore this so much.


Teenagering (Spicy pink roses, pink carnations, squished sugar cookies)

Preliminary notes: I'm not gonna tell the carnation wedding scent story for the 40th time on this blog, but it's still an ongoing hunt. No wedding in the foreseeable future, but still.

In bottle: Spicy rose and vanillic sugar cookies! Not much carnation.

On skin: Y'all, this is it. My carnation hunt is over. This is a very spicy carnation-rose-vanilla combo, and it's stunning. While my whole idealized carnation wedding scent idea will probably go out the window by the time I actually get married, this is my top contender for sure. It's sweet, spicy, and romantic. Absolute perfection. I'm so glad I managed to get a bottle of this from a fellow forumite.


Verdict: 5 carnation-flavored cookies out of 5. This is exquisite.


Sinister Restlessness (Blackened vetiver, amber smoke, clove, oud)

Preliminary notes: This sounds incredibly dark and foreboding, but a lot of the reviews on the forum cite this as being Christmas-y and having a hidden orange note.. that, and some sort of sexually-repressed vampire.

In bottle: I can absolutely see where people are getting a Christmas pudding/orange vibe from with this. It's not nearly as dark and ominous as it sounds. Vetiver can either be great or really overwhelming, and it's lovely here. The clove is gorgeous, and the smoke is subtle but balances everything out and brings a bit of a mysterious edge to it. This would be a lovely holiday scent, and it has a dark coziness about it.

On skin: Everything melds together so well on the skin, and the overall vibe is very warm and snuggly. Certainly not what I'd expect vibe-wise, given the name.

Verdict: 5 clove-studded oranges pretending to be sinister out of 5.


Beaver Moon: Violet and Vanilla Chiffon (Violet, vanilla chiffon)

Preliminary notes: I mean, it's vanilla, and it's chiffon. I don't know if the chiffon here is the fabric or the dessert, but either way, I wanted a violet scent. Violets are my partner's birth flowers, I'm incredibly sentimental, blah blah blah.

In bottle: Beautiful old-fashioned violet and almost powdery vanilla.

On skin: The chiffon (cake) note smells very mini donut or otherwise fried dough adjacent, which I wasn't expecting. It really works with the violet, and it ends up smelling like carnival food. The sweetness reads a bit like cotton candy too.

Verdict: 4 violet desserts out of 5.


Single Note: Burning Book (No notes given)

Preliminary notes: Now, listen. There are two scent notes I always hunt for: beeswax/candle wax and books. You'd figure by now I'd have hit my limit for just how many book perfumes I can try/own, but alas, dear reader, no. After this though, I think I will have. So. Many. Book perfumes.

In bottle: BPAL's classic book scent DNA, with warm leather and tobacco underneath.

On skin: This very heavily reminds me of something I've tried before, but I have no idea what it is or which house it was from. Possibly BPAL's Buggre Alle This Bible, but I haven't smelled that in years and can't say for sure. It's a leather-heavy book scent with some incense and tobacco in the background, and it has an almost nutty tone to it. Smoky, but not overly so; to be honest, I was expecting mostly smoke with a hint of books, but it's the other way around on my skin.

Actually, now that I'm sitting here writing this, I think this reminds me of Alkemia's Farkas a little bit (I'm assuming it's probably the leather), and maybe a touch of Book of Shadows. Regardless, the leather note in this is exquisite, and it melds with everything else perfectly. The bottle I bought is 13 years old and has aged like a fine wine. No funkiness or other weirdness at all.

Verdict: 5 burning leatherbound tomes out of 5.


Midwarkust (Opium, narcissus, myrrh, funnel cake, caramel apple, cotton candy, saltwater taffy, sugar tart, red musk, patchouli, ylang ylang)

Preliminary notes: I never got to try Midway before it was discontinued/retired, and I don't remember ever trying Lust. I'm pretty sure I had a sample of Darkness at one point. This scent is a conglomeration of all 3, which sounds really interesting.

In bottle: Floral, wine-like apple. It smells very red-violet to me. Beyond the apple, I don't get anything specific, but it all melds beautifully.

On skin: I usually stay away from apple notes, as they tend to read as hair product-adjacent to me, but this one is lovely. I don't get caramel apple specifically, but it is sweetened by the other candy and pastry notes. The florals are nondescript to my nose but are there to keep things from going too saccharine. The myrrh is the only other note I can distinguish from everything else. The whole vibe of this is very dark carnival-esque, which is absolutely my jam.

Verdict: 4.75 dark carnivals out of 5.


The Illustrated Woman (Skin musk, smoky vanilla, pine pitch, patchouli, Indian resins, golden honey, tobacco)

Preliminary notes: This lady has been on my wishlist for many years at this point, and I don't know why I kept bypassing her. Sounds right up my alley.

In bottle: Definitely tobacco-heavy and very smooth. The pine pitch reads almost minty, and the vanilla in here is gorgeous.

On skin: The resins and tobacco are at center stage here, and I wouldn't be shocked if you'd told me there's hidden sandalwood in here as well. It reminds me of a couple of BPAL scents I've tried in the past (NG Bast, maybe?), but this is so much better. It's warm, dry, and conjures imagery of desert sand. The honey note featured here is spectacular. The pine hangs out just beneath the surface and still smells almost minty, so there's a little vanilla-mint action going on.

Verdict: 4 gallons of desert sand out of 5.


Le Jour des Morts (Incense, red roses, climbing ivy, black hellebore, black dahlias, a drop of red wine)

Preliminary notes: I had this back in 2019, and it was my very first BPAL scent. I don't know why I got rid of it in the past, but it was a massive mistake, especially given that Pretty Indulgent (the site it was sold through) has been defunct for several years now. I was very excited to find this in artisjok's sales post. Y'all have no idea.

In bottle: Ohhh yes, just as I remember. Beautiful incense notes backed by green florals.

On skin: Gorgeous ivy and wet florals with resinous, bright incense. This is a really lovely cemetery floral that never gets overbearing. It smells like the feeling of a Gothic novel.

Verdict: 5 romantic Victorian cemeteries out of 5.


Deer Moon: Golden Tobacco and Beeswax (Golden tobacco, beeswax)

Preliminary notes: Tobacco is another scent note that I tend to hunt, but not nearly as much as books or beeswax. This has two of my favorite notes in it, so what could go wrong?

In bottle: Strangely, petrichor. Very strong petrichor and damp stone, with some beeswax trailing.

On skin: Largely the same. Still petrichor heavy. The tobacco is chewy and almost toasted once it starts drying down, and the earthy quality of it melds really well with the beeswax. It's dreamy. This eventually melds into a sweet, slightly smoky beeswax scent.

Verdict: 4.75 rainy beehives out of 5.


A Medley of Vulvas (Bourbon vanilla, pink labdanum, pink pepper, honey, bushman's candle absolute)

Preliminary notes: So this was kind of a last minute addition to one of my sales orders, but it sounded so interesting. I have no idea what bushman's candle is (Google says it's a species of succulent?), and I've never seen "pink labdanum" as a note anywhere, so. I do love pink pepper and honey as well.

In bottle: I don't get any of the notes specifically other than the honey, which is a clear and light honey note compared to the honey notes in some of the other BPAL scents I have. There's something that I can only describe as "pokey" about this scent; it's bright but also a bit sharp, but not in a bad way. It's also a bit fuzzy, which I suppose fits the theme.

On skin: On skin, this smells almost entirely different. The labdanum is very strong and overshadows most of the other notes, aside from the honey. There's something in here that smells almost urinous on my skin, which is a shame. There's a delightful dry wood note in there, but the medicinal, almost ammonia note in here ruins it for me. It evens out to a honeyed bubblegum kind of scent after the initial few minutes of smelling like pissy wood, but I can't get over the wet phase.

Verdict: 1 dry piece of wood out of 5.


Cognac-Stained Sheet Ghost (Vanilla-infused balsam, white cognac, tumbleweeds)

Preliminary notes: Ah, this one. Highly revered, and most likely for good reason. I don't think I've ever come across tumbleweed note before.

In bottle: Oh, this is special. The cognac is the strongest player in the bottle, followed by the vanilla and balsam.

On skin: From arm's length, this reminds me of pet stores I'd been to as a child. It doesn't smell animalic at all, and I'm not sure what exactly it is. I think it's an undercurrent of hard rubber, but in a good, nostalgic way (think Kong toys). The rubbery element of this isn't present throughout the entire wear time, and it doesn't smell rubbery at all up close, which is wild. Despite the weird pet toy association (which is probably a me-specific thing), I absolutely adore this. It's rugged but elegant and very addictive.

Verdict: 5 ghosts throwing dog toys out of 5.


Shouutsushi Aioi Genji (Candle wax, golden amber, lotus root, smoke)

Preliminary notes: See above. Candle wax fiend. I've also never seen lotus with a smoke note, so that's intriguing too.

In bottle: Beeswax, beeswax, and nothing but beeswax. A tiny bit of smoke, but mostly beeswax. It's very similar to The Lights of Men's Lives in the bottle.

On skin: I'm not sure if it's the amber or lotus root, but something bright is trying to break through the shadow of smoky beeswax. The beeswax is a bit more "translucent" than other beeswax notes, for lack of a better word. It's strong, but it smells almost diluted and pale compared to other beeswax notes (which makes sense, given that it's listed as candle wax here). The smoke is very much a candle wick smoke as opposed to woodsmoke as well, and I'll never stop marveling at how some perfumers seem to be able to bottle that scent. Overall, this feels very romantic but also a tad mysterious, like a brood of vampires hanging out in a dimly lit room hazy with incense smoke. It very heavily reminds me of characters and scenes I've written about before.

Verdict: 5 pieces of broody vampire fiction out of 5.


Death Is Death (White sandalwood, myrrh, faded incense smoke)

Preliminary notes: Do I need more incense scents? No. Does this sound dry and reminiscent of bones? Yes. Thus starts my no-buy until at least the Halloween release.

In bottle: Vegetal sandalwood, veering on Nag Champa. Very incense-y.

On skin: Largely the same on skin. There's something that gives this an almost caramelized quality, but it's not really sweet or foody at all. It really does just smell like a burning incense stick, largely, which is lovely. It's simple but very effective.

Verdict: 4.25 curls of incense smoke out of 5.

⚙️ Deus Ex Machina (Fire hardened steel, rusted iron, motor oil, wet cement, burnt copper wires, grey amber)

Preliminary notes: So Fox is an electrician by trade, and the first time he came home smelling like copper wires, something twigged in my brain. I apparently find the scent of copper to be comforting as a result. I've tried Industrial Sabotage before, which is remarkably similar to this in composition, but I can't remember what it smelled like at all. This also sounds very steampunk-y or like something out of the Fallout games.

In bottle: This is mostly cement and metal in the bottle, which isn't nearly as intimidating as it sounds. I don't get any copper and very little motor oil.

On skin: On the skin, this is primarily stone and motor oil. It's still not as scary as it sounds and is quite comforting, actually. Strange and conceptual, sure, but it's "wearable" too. I get a little bit of the copper and other metals in there as well, and a bit of powdery amber(gris). It leans ever so slightly masculine, but it doesn't smell like straight up cologne.

Verdict: 4 industrial machines out of 5.


🔮 Haunted & Bewitched (Egyptian white amber, star jasmine, ambrette seed, rosewater Turkish Delight, pink pepper, Madagascar vanilla, bourbon caramels, aged patchouli, botanical pheromones)

Preliminary notes: I've had this before, and I remember the Turkish Delight note very vividly but not the rest. I think I had this at a time where I was rejecting anything pink or girly-smelling, so it got destashed as a result. I don't hold those same restrictions on myself anymore. If I like something now, I like it regardless of what category it falls into.

I'm also not going to lie, I have a permanent association between Turkish Delight and the animated version of The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe from 1979. The scene with The White Witch enchanting Edmund with hot cocoa and Turkish Delight was absolutely magical to me as a child, and it was the first time I'd ever heard mention of Turkish Delight. So naturally, every time I hear or see anything to do with the confection, that's where my mind goes.

In bottle: Ah, yes. Pink pepper-infused Turkish Delight and a splash of booze. The Alkemia team also filled this bottle impossibly full (literally right to the top of the brim), so I'll be good on this for many years.

On skin: Virtually the same on the skin, though it warms up a bit. The Turkish Delight is the strongest note, backed by the pink pepper and caramels. There's a dash of patchouli in there as well, and a tiny hint of florals. It's feminine without being too frilly, and it's sweet without being overly saccharine. For me, it absolutely does evoke that scene from The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe, which makes me feel like a magical, powerful badass (at least a little bit). This is a gorgeous, gooey flormand, and I'm really stoked to have it again. It brings me a lot of nostalgic joy from my early days getting into this hobby and discovering Alkemia for the first time.

Verdict: 5 spicy Turkish Delights out of 5.


💘 Love Flight of a Candy Heart (Pink cotton candy, candy orange slices, red licorice, bergamot, pineapple, fresh passionfruit, green figs, vanilla musk, pink pepper, oleander, freesia, Panama rose, frangipani, green coconut water, cashmere musk)

Preliminary notes: Honestly, this sounds super fruity and not like my normal fare, but Alkemia's cotton candy scents always sucker me in (I've literally tried all of them at this point). I also haven't seen a pineapple note used in their scents in quite some time.

In bottle: Tropical, citrusy cotton candy. I don't get much else from it, and it's fairly faint. This reminds me of body sprays I used as a teenager, and I mean that in the nicest way possible. It's nostalgic.

On skin: Surprisingly, the pineapple and passionfruit are the strongest notes on the skin. It's delightfully tropical and fruity. The red licorice rears its head with the cotton candy, and the florals start to peek in as well. It's a very juicy, tropical, summery gourmand. Despite the candy notes, it's not overly saccharine, either. I was initially concerned about the passionfruit, since it's not a note I generally care for, but it works well here and isn't overbearing at all.

Verdict: 4.25 tufts of bright yellow tropical cotton candy out of 5.


🌿 Earthlight (Linden blossoms, wild fennel fronds, jasmine tea leaves, melissa, muguet, citrus bergamia, cedar tips, petitgrain, copalchi, guaiacwood, santal, hemlock pine needles, green patchouli leaves)

Preliminary notes: I've always found linden to be a really pretty, quintessential springtime floral despite not being around it IRL ever, so this was very enticing to me. I love a good vernal floral scent to begin with.

In bottle: Beautiful wet, verdant meadow vibes, which is what I was hoping for from this. I don't get any of the florals outright.

On skin: Largely the same, but somehow even more green on the skin. The patchouli and fennel are the strongest, but the fennel isn't overly pungent and licorice-y. It just smells herbal. I get the citrus and jasmine tea leaves if I try really hard, but this is mostly about the greenery. This is a gorgeous, contemplative meadow scent, and I'm really glad I snagged a bottle of this before it disappears again. My only complaint with it is how fast it fades, but that's alright.

Verdict: 4.75 verdant meadows out of 5.


✨ Ecstasies of Light (White amber, pear blossoms, white figs, bergamot, gorse flowers, winter honeysuckle, osmanthus)

Preliminary notes: I'm apparently still on some sort of lactonic and/or white amber kick, and this is no exception. Pear can be hit or miss, but I love it in Carmen 7, so I'm hoping I'll be able to tolerate it here too. This sounds glorious and glowy.

In bottle: This is hard to tease apart, but it absolutely fits right into Alkemia's ethereal-white amber family of Ghost Fire, Luminae, Supernatural, and others. I get a bit of bergamot and osmanthus, but it's mostly creamy white amber.

On skin: Oh, interesting. This becomes almost cologne-y and aquatic on the skin. The pear blossom and osmanthus are beautiful here, and it's very ethereal-smelling, like a glittering veil. There's a bit of sweetness in there, but nothing candy-like or foody. Honestly, this reminds me of ghosts a little bit, like an elegant ghost haunting the halls of a castle or stately Victorian house. Absolutely stunning addition to Alkemia's white ambers. Definitely a fan.

Verdict: 4.25 elegant ghosts out of 5.


👻 Honored Ghosts (Earl Grey tea, black raspberry creams, rosewater-saffron syrup, cinnamon honey, white amber, vanilla incense)

Preliminary notes: I got a friend of mine into Alkemia a few years ago, and this is one of the scents she sampled and upsized. Raspberry is probably one of my least favorite fruits outside of jam, but the rest of this sounds up my alley.

In bottle: Ugh, god. Bury me with this. I don't get any raspberry whatsoever in the bottle, and it's all deliciously honeyed tea and incense. There's some sort of hidden green note in the bottle as well.

On skin: The raspberry peeks out a very tiny bit on the skin, but it's barely there (which is a win for me). The tea and incense notes in this are sublime. It's witchy and sweet without being overly gourmand. This is definitely fall and Halloween appropriate, but it's absolutely versatile enough to be worn any time of the year too. I'm really glad I finally tried this, because I adore it. It brings to mind the image of a young apprentice witch studying tasseomancy in a room hazy with soft incense smoke.

Verdict: 5 witchy teas out of 5.


💖 Come to Me (Candied rose petals, star jasmine, peach blossom, cardamom-infused figs, pink pepper, orris root, Mexican vanilla, tonka bean, cashmeran, white amber, sugar musk, white patchouli, botanical pheromones)

Preliminary notes: Another one I had and destashed because I was afraid of femininity at the time, or something. I remember liking this, with the rose and peach blossom being the strongest notes.

In bottle: I'm not going to lie, this smells a bit like peach-jasmine detergent in the bottle, which is.. interesting and not what I remember.

On skin: This has always had a SweeTarts-adjacent vibe going on, in which it's very sweet and fruity. It doesn't smell like detergent as much on the skin, thankfully. It has some characteristics in common with Haunted and Bewitched, but this is much sweeter. The pink pepper in this is really nice, as is the peach blossom. I'm not entirely sure if I like this or not, to be honest. It's almost saccharine and a bit overwhelming.

Verdict: 3 slightly overwhelming SweeTarts out of 5.


🌊 Ambre Gris (Ambergris, ocean minerals, sea salt)

Preliminary notes: Annnd another one I used to have. I didn't destash this because it was too feminine though. I don't usually wear oils in the summer because of the heat, but I do remember enjoying this during warmer weather.

In bottle: This, on the other hand, is exactly how I remember it. Saline, aquatic, warm, and to be frank, a bit odd in all the right ways.

On skin: God, this is lovely. Warm, a bit salty, aquatic, and a tiny bit green as well. It really does smell like something you'd find in the ocean, and I love it for that. It's atmospheric without smelling like sunscreen or a generic blue candle. This bears some resemblance to Sandscape (which I think might be discontinued), but I like this much better. Sandscape *does* veer into generic blue candle territory and can be a bit overwhelming, but the warmth and saline quality of this one keeps it in check.

Verdict: 4.75 chunks of ambergris out of 5.

I had an issue with the first shipment of some of these getting sent back before they went through customs, which wasn't BPAL's fault, and then Canada Post went on strike in November, so these took longer to get here than I had anticipated. Then, I ended up moving a few days after the parcel finally showed up, so this post is very late. My apologies!

A little Halloween in early winter action never hurt anyone, so let's Nightmare Before Christmas this place up!

(Some of these aren't technically Weenies, but they either came out around the same time or otherwise fit the theme of Halloween/fall)

🍬 Sweet Tooth (Scorched candy corn and melted toffees)

Preliminary notes: Honestly, if it wasn't for this scent, I probably would have bypassed the Weenies this year. I can't resist candy corn or toffee notes on their own, and I've never seen them together. The scorched aspect of this really interests me as well, so I'm curious as to whether this will just be a goopy sugarbomb, or if there'll be a bit of a smoky edge to it.

In bottle: Oh my goddd, this is SO toffee-heavy, which is exactly what I wanted from it. The candy corn melds into it as well, so it's very sweet and sugary. I get a tiiiny, tiny hint of smoke beneath that.

On skin: Be still my heart! This has the same toffee note as Drink Me, which is one of my very favorite BPAL scents. There's also something in here that reminds me of plastic witch noses from the 90s, and by that, I don't mean this smells like plastic (because it doesn't at all). The specific noses I'm thinking of had a sweet, almost fruity, almost melted candle wax smell, and I loved it.

This definitely has the same melted wax quality to it, and I love it. Sweet, melted wax and toffee with maybe a teeny tiny hint of a wispy smoke note, but it's barely there. I don't get anything scorched, but melty is definitely a good descriptor for this one. Delicious, melty, caramel-y goodness.

Verdict: 5 melty chunks of toffee out of 5.


🍂 The Autumn Folk (Hay-dusted oak, honey mead, pumpkin rind, vetiver root, corn husk, maple leaves)

Preliminary notes: Corn husks always remind me of our local pumpkin patch, and the rest of the note lineup here kind of fits that theme as well. It sounds like a delightful, dry autumnal atmospheric.

In bottle: Oh, wow. Warm and cozy right off the bat, which I wasn't expecting for some reason. The mead, corn husk (such a beautiful note), and oak are the strongest notes. I smell something a bit buttery as well, which is probably the pumpkin. The vetiver isn't acrid at all.

On skin: This is quite pretty! The mead is reading as almost citrusy to me, and everything else melds with it so well. There's a butteriness from the pumpkin, an earthiness from the oak, vetiver, and corn husk, and a bit of sweetness from the maple leaves and mead. It's delightfully autumnal, and a sunnier scent than the description would have one believe. To me, this is an early autumn scent, and it encapsulates the imagery of sunlight peeking through branches in an orange and gold copse of trees. Love it.

Verdict: 5 golden autumn days out of 5.


🎃 Vintage Pumpkin Blow Mold (White musk, sweet orange, crystalline amber, pumpkin rind)

Preliminary notes: I bought Vintage Ghost Blow Mold last year and LOVED it, so this was kind of a no-brainer. I'm also a fan of sweet orange notes.

In bottle: Oh, this is pretty. Weirdly enough, it kind of reminds me of eggnog (or maybe white chocolate), but if it was flavored with orange (which sounds kind of gross, but I promise, it smells better than it would taste). I'm curious to see if the eggnog vibe translates onto the skin.

On skin: First off, I love the orange note in this and might have to keep an eye out for it in the future. The eggnog vibe that was in the bottle is completely gone on the skin. It's all about the orange and white musk, which go together beautifully. Something about this smells sparkling and upscale, like an elegant person in white furs standing underneath a crystal chandelier. It's gorgeous and refined. Despite the (spiced) pumpkin and orange, I wouldn't categorize this as a gourmand at all. Vintage Ghost Blow Mold is absolutely a milky gourmand, but Vintage Pumpkin Blow Mold is just a really pretty, citrusy mood scent.

Verdict: 4.75 glittering pumpkins out of 5.


🎃 Jolly (Pumpkin cream, caramel-coated marshmallow, crushed candy corn, lemon peel, belladonna honey)

Preliminary notes: Pumpkin, caramel, AND candy corn? Yes, please.

In bottle: Surprisingly biting/herbal in the bottle! Once again, there's something in here that reminds me of holiday foods, and I'm not sure what it is. I don't get the pumpkin outright, but I do get a very thick, caramelized cream note. This has a sinister edge to it as well, like being presented a picturesque dessert that's been poisoned.

On skin: This reminds me of something I've smelled before, but I have no idea what it is. Something in here is reading as slightly vegetal, and I'm not sure if it's the pumpkin cream or honey. It has an almost.. dare I say, aquatic or saline quality to it, and I have no idea where that's coming from. I definitely get all of the sweet candy goods, a tiny glimpse of the lemon peel, and the honey note, which is clear and thin. This is still very much an inviting but sinister scent, and I think that's a really fascinating dichotomy to be able to capture in scent format.

Verdict: 4 sinister desserts out of 5.


🎃 Pumpkin Sugar (Crystallized glittering shards of lightly spiced pumpkin sugar)

Preliminary notes: This was kind of a last minute addition to the order. It was a toss up between this and the Candied Apple single note, but I'm very picky about apple notes, so I figured this would be a safer bet.

In bottle: I mean, it's exactly what it says on the tin: pumpkin spices and sugar. There's something a bit dusty and a tiny bit vegetal in there as well, which I would wager is a pumpkin note.

On skin: Delicious, sweet pumpkin spice and sugar. There's a little bit of a buttery pumpkin note in there, but my skin amps cinnamon, so it's mostly cinnamon and sugar on me. Actually, this reminds me of Possets' Sticky Buns a bit, but this is less intense/syrupy. Pumpkin Sugar is linear but really pleasant, and it'd be perfect for layering with other scents that need a bit of a sweet, spicy kick, or with gourmands (layering this with a black tea scent would be delightful, I feel). This is a perfect seasonal transition scent between fall and winter, as the cinnamon gives it a bit of a holiday vibe.

Verdict: 4.5 sugar and spice mixtures out of 5.


🎃 Knave of Pumpkins (Crushed roses, red currant, pumpkin tarts)

Preliminary notes: I had a free sample of Knave of Hearts and really liked it, so a pumpkin variant of that caught my attention immediately. This has red currant, however, and Knave of Hearts has blackcurrant, so it'll be interesting to see how that compares.

In bottle: Knave of Hearts but sweeter, is basically what this is giving me. Once again, I don't get any pumpkin outright, but the tart note in this compared to OG Knave is very custard-y.

On skin: This is similar but also quite different to OG Knave. The use of red currant instead of blackcurrant really stands out, and it meshes with the rose note really well and gives the blend a more candylike, playful vibe. My boyfriend clocked the pumpkin tarts right away, but I couldn't smell them for a while. I smelled the pastry note from the tarts and something creamy/custard-y, but not the pumpkin itself until maybe 10-15 minutes into the drydown. The pumpkin is interwoven with the custard and is very subtle, at least to my nose. Either way, I like OG Knave a lot, but I think I like this even better. My boyfriend loves it too.

Verdict: 5 heart-shaped tarts dripping in red currant juice out of 5.


🎃 Dead Leaves, Burnt Marshmallows, Clove Cream, and Whiskey (Dead leaves, burnt marshmallows, clove cream, whiskey)

Preliminary notes: I've only tried two Dead Leaves blends prior (Dead Leaves on Fire and Dead Leaves, White Sandalwood, and White Moss), but I loved them both. I am a sucker for a good burnt/toasted marshmallow note, but I've never actually encountered a realistic one. I'm hoping it's realistic here. I also love clove and whiskey notes, so this one was a no-brainer.

In bottle: The first sniff of this was.. bizarre. I don't have words to describe it. After that, the Dead Leaves note is the strongest, followed by a gorgeous clove. This smells more "natural" and realistic than Dead Leaves on Fire to me.

On skin: The clove cream definitely packs a punch. You also get the classic, vegetal Dead Leaves note, a bit of the whiskey, and miraculously, the burnt marshmallow note makes an appearance as well (though the marshmallow smells toasted as opposed to truly charred).

The whole thing has a very toasty, almost holiday pudding vibe to it, which I think is great for the transitional period between fall and winter. I wasn't sure about this in the bottle, but on the skin, it's absolutely lovely. Spicy, toasty, and warm. This is very clove-heavy, so if you're not a fan of clove, definitely skip this one.

Verdict: 5 clove-y holiday puddings decorated with fall leaves out of 5.


🎃 Bourbon-Soaked Pumpkin Peanut Butter Fudge (Bourbon, pumpkin, peanut butter fudge)

Preliminary notes: I have a pumpkin and peanut butter candle that I burned off and on during the fall and loved it, so if this is even remotely similar, I'll be over the moon about it.

In bottle: Spiced bourbon and caramel, oddly enough. The peanut butter is very subtle.

On skin: This is quite strong upon initial application. There's a giant, cinnamon-spiced, boooozy bourbon cloud that blooms up from the skin. Underneath that, there's a tiny bit of a vegetal pumpkin, but it's mostly bourbon and spice. I don't get any peanut butter, and the sweetness of the fudge is fairly subtle. This is very rich and spicy, despite not being overly sweet. Huge sillage on this one.

Verdict: 4.25 spiced bourbons out of 5.


🎃 Pumpkin Bliss (Honey-dusted milk chocolate pumpkin bites)

Preliminary notes: The original Bliss, to me, smells like warm chocolate chips. As if you just took a pan of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies out of the oven, but there's no smell from the cookies themselves, and it's just the scent of baked chocolate. I'm curious as to how a pumpkin note is going to meld with that.

In bottle: This definitely has cinnamon in it, or at least that's how it smells in the bottle. I don't get much of the original Bliss DNA in this.

On skin: Honeyed cinnamon bark with a tiny bit of chocolate underneath. Whyyy, skin chemistry. That's quite disappointing. No baked chocolate, no cookie-like note, just sweet cinnamon. That's 100% a result of my skin amping it and not a fault with the scent itself, as I have this issue fairly often. I didn't expect this to have cinnamon in it at all, so that's a bummer. If I had known that, I would have just gotten a bottle of OG Bliss. Oh well.

Verdict: 2 cinnamon-scented disappointments out of 5. Again, not a fault of the scent itself, but a huge bummer.


🎃 Pumpkin Latte (Espresso, pumpkin syrup, smoky vanilla bean, milk, raw sugar, a dash of cinnamon and nutmeg)

Preliminary notes: As mentioned in other review posts, I can't drink coffee, but I sure do love the smell of it. I've never had a PSL, but this sounds divine.

In bottle: Yup, that smells like a spiced latte. I don't get any pumpkin outright, but the rest of the notes are there. When I first got this, it smelled like stewed tomatoes in the bottle, which is an experience I've had with coffee scents before, for whatever reason.

On skin: Oh look, our friends Stewed Tomatoes are back. I think it's the cinnamon mixing with something else that's causing that, but I'm not sure. I don't get any coffee or pumpkin, just spicy stewed, syrupy tomatoes. Not into it.

Verdict: 0 cans of stewed tomatoes out of 5.


🎃 Apple Cider Donuts (Apple cider, donuts)

Preliminary notes: As soon as I saw this in the Virtualcon announcement email, I knew I had to get it. I haven't had stellar luck with BPAL's pastry/baked good notes in the past (they tend to not be as full-bodied or realistic as I'd like), but this also includes apple cider. Even if the donut note isn't realistic, I'll still like it if the cider note is good.

In bottle: Well, this is slightly disappointing. No baked good notes to speak of at all, but a very nice apple note.

On skin: Ahhh, there it is. Rather than a donut though, I get an almost fritter-y note beneath the apple, and even then, it's still 95% apple. A tiny bit of spice as well, but not to the point where my skin is amping it, thankfully. The apple note in this is very fresh and almost cooling, which is my preferred kind of apple note.

As this wears, the fritter-like note becomes a bit stronger, but the apple is the star of the show. I definitely wouldn't call this a strong gourmand or baked good scent, but I also tend to be slightly disappointed with BPAL's gourmands in general. They aren't quite foody enough for me most of the time. Regardless, I do like this a lot, even though it's nowhere near smelling like a donut.

Verdict: 4.25 fresh apples out of 5.


🎃 Hot Buttered Apple Cider (Hot apple cider, melted buttery swirl)

Preliminary notes: Hot apple cider is one of my favorite things during the fall and winter, so this sounds perfect since we're quickly approaching colder weather as I'm writing this.

In bottle: Rather than apple cider and melted butter, I'd say this smells like apple cider buttercream. There's a very distinct frosting-like quality to this.

On skin: Still very much apple cider buttercream. I almost wonder if there was some sort of labeling issue and this is actually Apple Cider Donuts, but then a strong butter note comes out, and it's very clearly not mislabeled. This is like a hot apple dessert with a fat pat of butter on top and is decidedly more gourmand than Apple Cider Donuts. If you don't like butter, I'd recommend avoiding this, since the butter note is very realistic and rich. I love this.

Verdict: 5 pats of butter on a warm apple dessert out of 5.


🎃 Pumpkin Gingerbread Creme Brulee Pie (Scorched pumpkin creme brulee in a gingerbread crust)

Preliminary notes: This has been on my radar for quite some time now, and I figured I might as well get it with the other pumpkin scents I picked up. Not technically a fall/Halloween scent, but.

In bottle: More or less exactly what it says on the tin. The pumpkin note here is the most realistic one I've come across from BPAL, and it smells like straight up pumpkin puree.

On skin: This is delicious. Slightly overcooked pumpkin puree, spicy gingerbread, and a bit of thick cream. This is probably the most realistic gourmand I've tried from BPAL, and it's one of their best for sure. Absolutely perfect pumpkin dessert scent.

Verdict: 5 gingerbread-y pumpkin pies out of 5.


🎃 Chocolat Viennois (A warm mug of dark chocolate and cream with a dribble of blood)

Preliminary notes: I don't usually vibe with chocolate notes, but after trying the original Bliss, I'm a fan of BPAL's at least. I've also been craving a hot chocolate kind of scent lately.

In bottle: Rich, dark chocolate for sure, with a bit of cream and either cherry or dragon's blood (or both) underneath.

On skin: Virtually the same, but richer and less creamy. The chocolate is very dark, and the cherry-dragon's blood combo is holding strong beneath that. There's something almost floral in there as well, which could just be the dragon's blood being extra punchy. After a while, something a bit vegetal and metallic comes to the surface, which smells almost mushroom-y. I liked this before the metallic/mushroom note popped up, but once that happens, it makes me a bit nauseous.

Verdict: 4 mugs of hot cocoa out of 5 before the metallic note pops up, 2 chocolate-covered mushrooms out of 5 afterward. I don't think I'm going to be able to wear this.


🎃 Snakes in the Berry Sonker (Snake Oil, baked blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, warm pastry crust, vanilla ice cream, molasses)

Preliminary notes: The only Snake Oil variant I've tried is Snakes Basking in the First Sunbeams of Spring, which I didn't like. The orange blossom was way too sharp for me, and it just wasn't my thing. I've sampled regular Snake Oil and like it, but not enough to buy it on its own. Mostly, I was thinking about blueberry scents and this one just happened to get released around the same time, so I was willing to take a gamble on it.

In bottle: Definitely Snake Oil, with a ton of berries dumped on top.

On skin: Snake Oil, but make it baked. The pastry crust and ice cream are the strongest underneath the Snake Oil, though the berry notes are very close behind. There's something salty and almost astringent in here, and that's a problem I had with Snakes Basking as well (which leads me to believe that Snake Oil variants just aren't for me). I don't dislike this, but I'm not over the moon about it either. I think I've finally accepted that I need to stop buying Snake Oil flankers.

Verdict: 3 baked berries out of 5.


🍯 Dead Leaves and Honeycomb (Dead leaves, honeycomb)

Preliminary notes: The honeycomb got me, y'all. I haven't tried many BPAL scents with honeycomb notes (Elf and Strawberries & Honeycomb specifically), but I am familiar with the Dead Leaves note. I'm curious to see how the two interact. I'm hoping for kind of a wild beehive in the middle of a fall forest vibe.

In bottle: Strictly just the Dead Leaves accord. I don't get any honeycomb at all.

On skin: Mostly the Dead Leaves accord (which smells fresher than in other DL variants I've tried), and lovely, warm, golden honeycomb beneath that. There's something almost lemony (or maybe mandarin-y. Definitely a citrus of some sort) in here, which further adds to the golden feel, like an autumn afternoon in a forest, with rays of sun breaking through a copse (I know I said something very similar about The Autumn Folk, but it's true in both cases). The leaves in this one smell like a yellowing green as opposed to truly dead, which I think is really interesting in contrast with the other DL scents I've experienced. This will be a lovely late-summer-into-early-autumn transitional scent, and a lovely autumnal scent in general. The more it wears, the more I like it. This is a beautiful and evocative entry into the Dead Leaves series.

Verdict: 4.75 wisps of yellowing leaves swirling around a beehive in a forest out of 5.


🎃 Moroccan Pumpkin (Pumpkin spices, warm musk, carnation, red sandalwood, cassia)

Preliminary notes: Ah, the last of my chosen Pumpkin Patch scents for this year. I was curious about this one but wasn't overly interested in it until I started seeing reviews of it, most of which cited a hidden buttery pumpkin note. I've been craving a good carnation-y gourmand lately as well, so.

In bottle: Hm.. I don't know about this. There's something in here that's a bit cloying to me, but I don't know what it is. Maybe the sandalwood? It's very warm and spice-heavy, which is nice.

On skin: I think I figured out why this is so offputting for me. Something in it smells vegetal and very similar to celery, which is one of my least favorite scents on the planet. It's like, spicy celery with a touch of cayenne on top, which is.. to be quite honest, it's atrocious. If you like spicy, heavy sandalwood notes, this might be a holy grail for you, but it makes me feel a bit ill.

Verdict: 0 stalks of spicy celery out of 5.


🕯️ Guttering Candle (Beeswax, a blackened wick, a shuddering gust of smoke)

Preliminary notes: Y'all know me and my beeswax/candle scents. As of writing this prelim (in late October), the only review I've seen of this was in a BPAL livestream from a bit ago, which didn't paint as much of a picture of this scent as I'd hoped.

In bottle: Much deeper and darker than The Lights of Men's Lives, which is what I expected this to smell like.

On skin: Oh, man, this is good. The beeswax is definitely the same as in The Lights of Men's Lives, but the smoke in this is exquisite. It really does smell like a still-warm candle that was just blown out, which isn't an easy thing to replicate in scent form. The Lab's description of "rivulets of beeswax" is definitely apt, as this smells thick and melty. There's a very tiny hint of sweetness in here, but it's largely smoke and beeswax. I almost passed this up, because how many smoky candle scents does one really need, but I'm very glad I bought this. This scent has a very odd cozy-but-unsettling vibe to it as well, which I find fascinating.

Verdict: 5 melty, freshly blown out candles out of 5.

Madam X (Bergamot, mandarin, dark violet, Italian iris, black orchid, Japanese incense, orris root, sueded musk, white sandalwood, Tahitian vanilla, pale patchouli)

Preliminary notes: I've sampled this so many times and had a bottle of it at one point, but it was a bit too mature for me at the time. The last time I received a sample of it, I fell in love with it all over again but still didn't repurchase it. After the July sale, I finally remembered it existed and got one. It has such a beautiful, classic silent film vamp vibe to it (moreso than Alkemia's Vamp, ironically enough), and being in my 30s now, it doesn't come off as too mature or too classic for me, though I can see how it still would for some. This review is for the ultime format.

In bottle: Super dark florals (violet and orchid especially), and sensual musk. Just as it used to be.

On skin: The florals are a bit stronger here than they are in the extrait version, but not by much. The citrus notes also seem to be a bit stronger, the mandarin especially. It still smells like a silent film vamp, and is absolutely exquisite. I can see how this would be too much for some people, but I think it's very decadently gothic and sultry. The ultime version, because of the amped citrus, is a bit brighter and not as heavy.

Verdict: 5 silent film vampires out of 5.


Une Nuit de Cleopatre (Egyptian kyphi incense, amber, warm caramel, tonka bean, vegan civet musk, spiced Sahlab tea, Satyrion orchid root, white honey, narcissus, jasmine, ylang ylang, honeysuckle)

Preliminary notes: This has been on my to-try list since its release. It sounds delightful. I'm not sure how the civet is going to behave, but other than that, it sounds right up my alley.

In bottle: Slightly biting florals, caramel, and tea primarily. very perfumey.

On skin: This is probably one of the warmest scents I've ever smelled. The honey, incense, caramel, and tea are still the strongest players, but the florals underneath those are gorgeous. It does conjure to mind the imagery of a dry desert landscape. It's very sensual and commanding, and I'm glad I finally tried it. Love this.

Verdict: 5 cups of tea swirled with caramel in a desert out of 5.


Drakon (Dragon's blood incense, coriander, vetiver root, ambergris, green cardamom, bergamot leaves, Talamanca del Caribe peppercorns, spice viburnum, freshly steeped Darjeeling tea)

Preliminary notes: Another one that's been on my list since it was released. Alkemia's Darjeeling note is fantastic, and there's nothing in here that gives me pause.

In bottle: So funnily enough, the peppercorn note is the strongest in the bottle, followed by the dragon's blood. I can smell the cardamom as well but not much else.

On skin: The various spice notes are definitely the strongest part of this. There is a bit of tea underneath that, but it's primarily peppercorns, coriander, and cardamom on my skin. The dragon's blood incense is very gauzy and light, and the whole thing brings to mind a scene of a spice tent with smoke swirling around it. It's a very exotic scent. The coriander can be a bit overbearing sometimes, but overall, I quite enjoy this.

Verdict: 4 spice tents out of 5.


This Summer Night (Tropical fruits, plumeria, pua kenikeni, cherimoya, coconut water, lychee blossoms, rhubarb, tonka, sweet alyssum, mock orangeflower, night-blooming jasmine, white florals, warm summer musk)

Preliminary notes: I never would have chosen this for myself, as I avoid fruit scents (especially tropical fruit scents) like the plague. They come off as either cloying or juvenile to me most of the time. I received this as a free sample in one of my July orders and fell in love with it.

In bottle: A tropical fruit explosion backed by a warm, gourmand-y vanilla.

On skin: Largely the same as in the bottle. Lots of luscious tropical fruits, a tiny bit of a humid floral vibe, and creamy vanilla. I don't usually go for tropical scents at all, fruity or not, so the fact that I like this is quite shocking to me. It's a perfect sweet (but not cloying) summer fruit fragrance.

Verdict: 5 baskets of tropical fruit out of 5.


Fairy Floss Alchemy (Cotton candy, white heliotrope, night-blooming jasmine, mandarin orange, vanilla orchid, ethereal musks)

Preliminary notes: This was August's free alchemy scent.

In bottle: Cotton candy on a backdrop of very clean florals and a bit of a tartness from the mandarin.

On skin: The vanilla orchid is definitely obvious on the skin, as are the cotton candy and mandarin. It's creamy and sweet but not juvenile. Actually, it kind of reminds me of All the Sins, but not as intense. This is kind of what I wanted Calliope smell like. It's a beautiful pink-white scent.

Verdict: 4 clouds of cotton candy out of 5.


Afterglow (Golden musk, Madagascar vanilla beans, woodsmoked black amber, chai tea, spiced rum, incense woods)

Preliminary notes: I have wanted to try this since it was first released, but never have for whatever reason. All of the notes sound lovely.

In bottle: I get the musk, rum, and woods but not much else. No tea or vanilla in the bottle.

On skin: The musk and amber combo in this scent reminds me of something else from Alkemia, but I can't pin what it is (La Flamme, maybe). The tea finally comes out on the skin, and the whole thing does have a very golden feel to it. It's very clean, which I wasn't really expecting, given the rum and woodsmoke notes. The vanilla veeery slightly teeters on the edge of being gourmand but never fully goes there. This reminds me a bit of Breath and Shadow from the 2024 fall release, but this isn't as heavy on the smoke note. It's a bit soapy, and I think pairing this with something lactonic (The Magpie's Rhyme maybe, or one of the Monster Milk scents from BPAL) might be worth trying.

Verdict: 3.75 soapy musks out of 5.

Ahoy! Back with another Alkemia PR review, which was very unexpected. I didn't receive samples for the summer collection after I'd reviewed the spring release, so I assumed it was kind of a one-and-done deal, which I was totally content with. But then these guys showed up in the mail earlier this month, which was a very nice surprise! I've had a hell of a month, as have most people I know, so reviewing these has been a nice break from all of the chaos that this August has been perpetuating. Many thanks to Alkemia for sending these to me at a time when I really needed a pick-me-up.

These samples were provided to me by Alkemia for review.

Book of Night (Artemisia, oakmoss, blue juniper berries, black patchouli, sweet pipe tobacco, clove, ritual incense resins, cashmere blanket, chai tea)

In vial: The artemisia, tobacco, and tea are at the forefront and are absolutely stunning.

On skin: Ugh, that artemisia note is gorgeous. I could bathe in it. The blend overall smells mysterious and a bit studious, like a stately wizard's private library deep within his home. I think this is the first Alkemia scent with clove in it that I can actually smell the clove in as well. It's herbal without being medicinal, and is a little bit broody. Fans of Deep Midnight's Incantation would probably like this, as the artemisia/wormwood note is very, very similar and is strong in both.

Verdict: 5 wizard's libraries out of 5. Upsized.


Breath and Shadow (Twilit chyprean musks and subtle exhalations of woodsmoke)

In vial: Definitely a bit smoky, but also fresh and citric as well.

On skin: This is such a gorgeous transitional cool weather scent. The musk is tempered by what I'm assuming is bergamot (hence chypre). The woodsmoke in this reminds me a lot of Alkemia's Samhain, in which it has an almost nutty quality to it. It's a very gauzy smoke note, as opposed to the bonfire-esque one in Smoke and Mirrors, for instance. I've worn this to bed once or twice, and it makes a delightfully calming sleep scent. It has an almost cool night air quality to it, which is really interesting.

Verdict: 5 cool late autumn nights out of 5. Upsized.


Dark Goddess (Midnight black amber, earthy vetiver root, dark red roses, spicy carnation, black Java vanilla, black locust, oakmoss, black pine resin, civet, myrrh, bay leaf)

In vial: I get the civet, some resins, and a lot of the bay leaf but not much else.

On skin: This goes fairly powdery once it hits my skin, which I'm not a fan of. Floral, herbal powder is not something I want to smell like. The black pine, myrrh, and carnation notes are glorious in this, but unfortunately, they don't temper the powderiness enough for me to be able to tolerate. I love the concept for this one, but it's definitely not for me.

Verdict: 2 powdery goddesses out of 5.


Incense of a New Church (Agarwood, costus, mentholated tobacco, steam-heated radiators, old machinery)

In vial: I absolutely adore the concept of this one. It's very powdery, however, which isn't my thing.

On skin: This has a very distinct metallic/plastic note in it, which makes sense given the note description. The incense in this is absolutely stunning, as is the agarwood. I'm not sure if it's the tobacco or the menthol, but there's something a bit sweet in here as well. I'm very on the fence about whether I like this or not, since it's a very conceptual, odd scent, but it has some beautiful elements in it.

Verdict: 4 steampunk churches out of 5.


Of Vice and Virtue (White crystalline sugar musk, heliotrope, fleshy peaches, piquant damson, spicy dianthus, nyctophilic white florals, sassafras, rosewood, santal, tonka)

In vial: Vanillic sugar and tuberose. I don't get anything else at all (which I'm not complaining about).

On skin: Largely the same. I can get a tiny bit of peach if I try reeeally hard, but the sugar musk and tuberose/white florals are the stars of the show. The first thing I thought when this hit my skin was, "This is such a special scent," but unfortunately, I can't elaborate on that. Some scents are just innately special. The sugar in this kind of reminds me of BPAL's Dorian toward the later drydown. The scents themselves are very different, but that warm vanilla sugar-type note is very similar in both. This scent overall is very soft and intimate, and it wears very close to the skin.

Verdict: 5 tuberoses dipped in sugar out of 5. Upsized.


The Beautiful and the Damned (Honey caramel, dark cacao, French lavender, red currants, Madagascar vanilla, champagne aldehydes, golden amber, cubeba pepper, blonde tobacco, dried rose leaves, opoponax, black copal, guaiacwood, copaiba balsam bathed in an elixir of sexually alluring animalics and pheromones)

In vial: Very herbal, with a bit of a vinegar-like quality to it.

On skin: The vinegar quality is completely gone on the skin, so I'm not sure what that was about. The honey caramel is a standout note for me, and there's something citrusy in here as well. It's a very decadent, seductive scent. If I try relatively hard, I can smell the cubeba pepper, which adds a very unique spicy aspect to this blend. Overall, it's very hard to pick the notes apart. If you like dark, herbal, spicy scents, this will be right up your alley. As it mellows, a really pretty vanilla sneaks its way to the top. I may end up upsizing this as well.

Verdict: 4 herbal caramels out of 5.

These were in Ajevie's NAVA Leftovers listing, and they both sounded like divine spring/early summer scents. I don't have any experience with NAVA's florals.

💐 Iris Toffee Honey Bee (Orange blossom honey, iris flower, caramel custard accord, rum, maple essence, toffee accord, brown sugar, white musk absolute)

Preliminary notes: This just sounds really intriguing to me. Toffee and caramel-y notes with iris?

In bottle: Surprisingly not gourmand at all, despite the foody notes. The iris in this is beautiful and not powdery, and I can only really smell the musk and honey along with it.

On skin: The toffee/caramel-esque notes are very, very quiet. The iris is definitely the star of the show here. It smells very soft and stately.

Verdict: 5 meticulously-kept iris gardens out of 5.


🍑 Apricot Créme Honey Musk Bee (Créme of apricot accord, apricot kernel essence, orange blossom honey accord, créme brulée accord, sugar, vanilla bean créme accord, papaya essence, Bastet's Musk)

Preliminary notes: That surprise papaya note toward the end of the description definitely piqued my interest. I wonder how everything's going to meld together here.

In bottle: Yup, that's apricot. I'm surprised there isn't a citrus note listed, because I'm getting a bit of a citrus fruit zing from something.

On skin: So it's the papaya that smelled like citrus initially, because it morphed from citrus to tropical fruitiness once it hit my skin. I can also smell the creme brulee peeking out behind the fruits and honey. This is delicious. I don't usually go for fruity scents, but this is fantastic.

Verdict: 5 tropical apricot desserts out of 5.


Overall, I'm a big fan of both of these. I'm very interested in trying out more Bees next year. I will note, though, that they both have very low throw.

Honey Craves Coffee Shops (Roasting coffee beans, honey-drizzled cake, freshly baked vanilla cookies, soft, overstuffed chairs, a hint of steamed milk)

Preliminary notes: As previously stated in several reviews, I am a coffee scent fiend despite not being able to drink coffee IRL. This kind of sounds like Marshmallows Bite! + coffee almost, so if that's the case, I'm not gonna be mad at it.

In bottle: In the bottle, this smells almost identical to Marshmallows Bite! I don't get any coffee whatsoever, which is a bummer.

On skin: Theeere's the coffee. It's still fairly subdued, but it's at least noticeable now. The baked goods are a bit more golden than they are in Marshmallows Bite!, but the scent overall is still very similar to it. The honey note in this is very pronounced and realistic, and "honey-drizzled cake" is very apt.

Verdict: 4 bakeries that also double as coffee shops out of 5. I like this but am a bit disappointed by how subtle the coffee note is and how similar it is to Marshmallows Bite! Oh well.

Pumpkins Crave Pointe Shoes (Creamy pumpkin and Korintje cinnamon with Arcana Wildcraft's Two Finger Ballet (French vanilla créme, white amber, sugared vanilla beans, caramel, and the smallest dab of opium))

Preliminary notes: I haven't tried OG Two Finger Ballet, but I do have Strawberries Crave Indulgence, which I love. A pumpkin version of that sounds delicious.

In bottle: Oh, that is lovely. It's very creamy, spicy, and dark with a bit of an edge.

On skin: This is sublime. Pumpkin and caramel on a spicy, slightly resinous backdrop. The cinnamon is pretty dry and doesn't veer into Red Hots territory. As an added bonus, I accidentally touched my wrist to my mouth while reviewing this, and I can confirm that it does not taste nearly as nice as it smells. Do not ingest oils, kids.

Verdict: 5 caramel-y pumpkin desserts out of 5. I adore this.

Pumpkins Crave Quietude (Soft vanilla, white amber, white musk, Mysore sandalwood, sweet pumpkin, a tiny pinch of white pepper)

Preliminary notes: From what I understand, this is basically Haint + pumpkin, which sounds lovely. I haven't tried OG Haint, so I won't be able to compare to that.

In bottle: Much like my experience with Peaches Crave Haint, this smells cool-toned. The white pepper is more pronounced here, and the pumpkin smells like a pumpkin pie as opposed to fresh pumpkin puree or something.

On skin: Peppery, spicy pumpkin. I'm actually shocked there isn't cinnamon in this, because it definitely smells like it. It almost smells like unlit pumpkin incense as well.

Verdict: 4.75 sticks of spiced pumpkin incense out of 5.

Vanilla Craves Enchanted Cottages (Banana flambé, vanilla créme anglaise, a rose garden sanctuary covered in morning dew, rose geranium, ylang-ylang, bananas dipped in brown sugar, sweet cacao, sheer almond, gnarled pine branches from the deep woods)

Preliminary notes: Whether or not this actually belongs in the autumnal review post is debatable, but I figured enchanted cottages and witchy things were close enough. At any rate, I love banana notes, and this sounds amazing.

In bottle: Bananaaaas. Lots of bananas. This isn't like candy-banana though. It does smell sweet but it's almost buttery. This is a lot more complex than just banana as well. The rose-banana combo is interesting, because they have very similar scent qualities. I liiike.

On skin: On skin, the banana recedes quite a bit, and the florals bloom pretty intensely. I can't make any of them out in particular, but the whole thing smells slightly spooky. There's something in here I don't care for, and I can't tell if it's one of the florals or the almond.

Verdict: 3 bananas frolicking in a forest out of 5. The florals are pretty overwhelming once it hits skin, and there's a very distinct burnt smell going on as well. There's a little bit too much going on in this one for me.

Honeys Crave Smoldering Cauldrons (Buckwheat honey, dark earth, long tendrils of cauldron smoke reaching up to the sky, damp, decaying leaves, wild chanterelles, blackened lavender stems, dried tea leaves, wildflowers)

Preliminary notes: Lavender isn't my favorite note, but look at that note lineup! How can you resist that if you're darkly-inclined and into witchy things? I've seen a lot of fungi notes, but never chanterelles specifically. This sounds very complex and interesting.

In bottle: Oh! I love this already. I can't make anything out specifically, other than the cool dirt and a bit of tea, but it smells amazing. It has an almost aquatic quality to it. Something about it reminds me of one of the beaches near our place, though it doesn't smell beachy at all (I'm in western Canada, so beaches here are lakes with a lot of trees and grassy patches).

On skin: This is a dead ringer for interior BC lakes/beaches. It's uncanny, which makes no sense since none of the notes are indicative of that. It's incredibly evocative and nostalgic for me, and despite the heavy notes, it's a perfect summer scent.

Verdict: 5 hometown lakes out of 5.

Pumpkins Crave Nog (Pumpkin flesh with rich eggnog, sugar cookies, Tahitian vanilla, cinnamon, and a spike of Arcana Wildcraft's Holy Terror (burning frankincense, sandalwood, deep myrrh, and dusty beeswax candles))

Preliminary notes: This sounds decadent as fuck, like a pumpkin trifle.

In bottle: To be completely honest, I don't know what I'm smelling here. I get a bit of the cinnamon, but there's some sort of savory note in there, and something boozy.

On skin: I don't get any eggnog whatsoever, but it does kind of smell like pumpkin pie ice cream. The cinnamon note is really nice and dry. The mystery savory note disappeared as well, so what's left is a warm, very slightly smoky pumpkin pie scent with a bit of a creamy note with it.

Verdict: 5 bowls of pumpkin pie ice cream out of 5.

Hullo, and happy holidays! I had originally planned on picking up a couple of things from other shops for Christmas, but 'tis the season for FOMO, so a lot of what I'd had my eye on sold out by the time I had the opportunity to place an order. I reached out to Possets in November and asked if they were having any upcoming sales, and they said yes. A 25% off Thanksgiving sale was too good of a deal to pass up, so here we are. A lot of these had been on my wishlist for a year or more.


🕯️ Luminaria (A similarity to butter cremes, a real nod to candles, a shot of cold, cold outdoor air)

Preliminary notes: I was looking for something candy cane-ish, and this is one of the closest things I could find in the Possets catalogue. I do enjoy buttermints as well, so I have high hopes for this one.

In bottle: Very faint in the bottle, but I do get a slightly boozy buttermint thing going on.

On skin: Still very faint and buttermint-y. There is something akin to candle wax going on as well. I read reports of there being a chocolate note on the forum, but I don't get any cocoa or chocolate from this at all. I wish this wasn't so faint!

Verdict: 2.5 pillowy buttermints out of 5. This disappeared from my skin after not even 30 minutes, so it's definitely not for me. Oh well.


🍪 The Lullaby (The very gingerbread house from the famous scene, filled with cream and red currants)

Preliminary notes: I got bitten by the gingerbread bug while looking at the Yules and had to get a few gingerbread scents to appease it. I'm not super into fruity scents, but I'm hoping the currants are fairly subdued.

In bottle: Very fruity! The currants are tart, and the cream is sweet. The gingerbread smells a bit more savory than sweet and is quite subtle in the bottle.

On skin: Very herbal, spicy currants. I don't get any cream or gingerbread, unfortunately. The red currant overpowers everything else.

Verdict: 2.5 houses made out of red currants out of 5. I'm going to try aging this to see if it balances things out a bit better.


🥧 Cranberry Pie (Spice, cranberry, caramelized juices, pie crust)

Preliminary notes: I LOVE cranberry in perfumery, and I wish it was a note that was used more often.

In bottle: I know this is supposed to be a pie scent, but to me, this smells just like cranberry cookies. The cranberry note in this is sublime, and it does smell a bit caramelized.

On skin: This is just delightful. Caramelized cranberries and pastry notes, with a gentle hit of spice. It's very soft and smells like a cranberry baked good that just came out of the oven. There's something slightly vanilla-y in there as well, so it smells like a warm cranberry dessert with a scoop of ice cream on the side, or whipped cream. Very Christmas-y and cheery.

Verdict: 5 warm-from-the-oven cranberry desserts out of 5.


🥛 Yule Posset (Cream with velvety vanilla and a bit of a rummy character)

Preliminary notes: I adore eggnog *so* much, and the full description for this heavily hints at it. I have not come across an eggnog scent that's realistic yet, so hopefully this one breaks the chain.

In bottle: Oh my god. An eggnog scent that ACTUALLY smells like eggnog. It's a miracle! There's something soft and almost cashmere-like in there as well, along with the rum. Delicious.

On skin: Still eggnog-y but very perfumey once it hits the skin. It's still the most realistic eggnog scent I've tried, so I'm very happy with it. The rum is warm and slightly spiced as well.

Verdict: 5 glasses of rum-spiked eggnog out of 5.


🍌 Banana Cream Pie (Banana, sweet cream reduced to custard, cane sugar, spices, golden lacy crust)

Preliminary notes: I remember this one being in my cart last winter, but I never actually bought it. Bananas are probably my favorite fruit, and DH and I were obsessed with a local restaurant's banana pudding when I first moved in with him. I've had banana cream pie scents from other houses that just kind of fell flat, so hopefully this one doesn't do that.

In bottle: Exactly what it sounds like. The bananas smell like they've been caramelized, poured into a pie crust with custard, and smothered in whipped cream.

On skin: This is sublime. It's a perfect banana cream pie/custard scent. I'm in love. This is a very straightforward scent, but it's SO good. Banana lovers, keep an eye out for this one!

Verdict: 5 banana cream pies smothered in whipped cream out of 5.


🧈 Buttermilk Pie (Buttermilk, butter, sugar, pie crust)

Preliminary notes: I don't have much to say about this one beyond, "It sounds tasty."

In bottle: This is quite faint in the bottle and smells pretty powdery, which I wasn't expecting.

On skin: The weird powderiness goes away once it hits the skin, fortunately. This is a fairly straightforward buttermilk dessert scent, and it's lovely. It's very soft and veers on the edge of being a skin scent. This makes a really lovely sleep scent and is quite comforting.

Verdict: 4 soft buttermilk pies out of 5.


❤️ Lovechild - Cranbaby (Tart cranberry dances merrily with a smooth dulce le leche)

Preliminary notes: More cranberry! This sounds like a really interesting pairing.

In bottle: Straight up cranberry juice. I don't get any dulce le leche at all (which is fine). So tart!

On skin: Very much still cranberry juice, and it is TART. I love it. There's something warm beneath that, which could be the dulce le leche, but it's very hard to actually make out.

Verdict: 5 towering mountains of cranberries out of 5.


🥃 Damned Souls (Hot buttered rum, a huge bag of marshmallows )

Preliminary notes: This one was kind of a last minute cart addition compared to the rest. I've loved hot buttered rum in other scents I've tried it in, and while I'm not keen on eating marshmallows, they'd probably add a nice soft sweetness here.

In bottle: This smells almost cookie-like. There's a distinct baked good smell coming from somewhere in here. Maybe the marshmallows are toasted?

On skin: Yeah, I'm putting all of my eggs in the toasted marshmallow basket, because this smells very baked, if that makes sense. It almost smells like caramel corn, which I'm also a fan of. This is mouthwatering.

Verdict: 5 popcorn balls out of 5.


🍬 The Gluttons' Delight (Artisanal jams, elegant truffles, endless buttered salted toffees, rivers of cream)

Preliminary notes: Ah, the only scent in this review that isn't a Yule scent. This was from the Halloween Retour, and it sounds too damned good not to try. Again, I don't love fruity notes, and chocolate isn't my favorite thing in perfumery either, but it all sounds delicious.

In bottle: I don't know what I'm smelling here, but it's none of the notes listed. It's almost pine-y? Hm.

On skin: The jam notes are definitely the strongest, with a bit of cream in the background. I don't get any chocolate or much toffee, to my dismay. It does smell like fancy desserts though.

Verdict: 3.5 jars of jam out of 5. I hope aging does this some good and the chocolate and toffee notes come out more.


🎄 The Ghost of Christmas Present (Balsam pine, tangerines, a roaring fire in the fireplace)

Preliminary notes: Ever since I smelled Deep Midnight's White Christmas, I've been chasing a very specific fir/pine/citrus combo. I'm not looking for a dupe at all, but the combination of fir and orange in White Christmas is intensely nostalgic to me, so I'm hoping for the same feeling here.

In bottle: In the bottle, this is absolutely in the same vein as White Christmas, but a bit deeper. The tangerine is very bright, and the whole thing is very warm and cozy.

On skin: As it says on the tin, this is a beautiful pine, citrus, and smoke scent. The smoke note is fairly subtle but is definitely there, the citrus smells warmed, and the pine is stunning. Possets' evergreen notes are dreamy.

Verdict: 4.5 citruses by the fire out of 5.


🍫 Bird's Nest in the Cowl (Bitter chocolate, bread pudding, Bavarian cream sauce, European gingerbread)

Preliminary notes: Kind of another last minute addition. More gingerbread, but also, more chocolate? What are you thinking, Femmenstein? (My justification is, "Yes, but bread pudding and cream sauce!")

In bottle: Now THIS is a gingerbread scent. It's very dry, but it's classic gingerbread and very realistic.

On skin: Still very gingerbread-heavy, but the bread pudding also makes itself known. This is one of the driest gourmands I've tried, but it's fantastic. I adore the gingerbread note in this.

Verdict: 5 sheets of gingerbread cookies out of 5.

To be completely honest, NAVA's been a brand I've largely avoided for the most part. For one, they don't ship to Canada anymore (these were ordered through Ajevie) so I have to go through decanters, and the idea of having an "absolute" of an accord doesn't make any sense to me. Having to go digging to find out what's actually in said accords is also a bit of a pain.

That being said, I've always wanted to try their stuff since I've heard such rave reviews. When Ajevie put up the Halloween leftovers on their site, I figured it was time.

Bonfire (Cardamom essence, Bastet's Ice Cream absolute, burning embers accord, toasted vanilla marshmallows, Studio Limited Crystalline Vanilla absolute, Bastet's Musk)

Preliminary notes: I am a huge sucker for a well done toasted marshmallow note, and I love smoky scents, so I'm hoping this is the best of both worlds.

In bottle: This smells very similar to Alkemia's Smoke & Mirrors, but a bit less smoky. I'm a fan so far!

On skin: Still very similar to Smoke & Mirrors (which is fine by me, since it's one of my favorite bonfire scents). The cardamom is present, and the blend overall is sweeter than Smoke & Mirrors. The marshmallow note is barely there but does smell toasted. I love this.

Verdict: 5 vanillic bonfires out of 5.

Vintage Dracula (Caramel accord, warm caramel sugar glazed candy, sea salted caramel accord, cinnamon, chocolate candy, sweetened condensed coconut milk)

Preliminary notes: It's no secret that I love caramel. I love foods that contain it, I love the way it looks, and I especially love the smell. For whatever reason (me being super picky, probably), I haven't come across too many realistic caramel notes in indie scents. Alkemia's Dusk in Autumn has a brilliant one, but I haven't come across too many others. This sounds amazing, and the label is fantastic as well.

In bottle: Very caramel-heavy, unshockingly enough. There's a very light citrus tinge to it, as well as a tiny bit of chocolate. It does smell pretty Halloween-esque.

On skin: Shockingly, it still smells like caramel. It actually reminds me of Solstice Scents' Halloween Night a little bit, despite not having a licorice note listed. It's very Halloween-appropriate.

Verdict: 4.5 Halloweens out of 5.

Vintage Werewolf (Candy corn accord, vanilla, wax accord, black patchouli, lycan musk accord, French vanilla, buttered almond, skin musk)

Preliminary notes: More candy corn scents, pleeease. I'd imagine it's going to be a fairly subtle note in there, but still. All the candy corn scents.

In bottle: This is very patchouli-forward, which I wasn't really expecting. It's nice patchouli, and not the headshoppy, dirty kind. I can't smell much beyond the patchouli in the bottle.

On skin: I'm 99% sure the "lycan musk" accord has some sort of evergreen in it, because that's what I'm getting mixed with the patchouli. I get a bit of buttery sweetness on top of that, but no specific notes. Definitely isn't what I was expecting, but it's still a really nice patchouli-forward fall scent.

Verdict: 4 werewolves eating buttery candy in a patchouli forest out of 5. I like this more the longer I wear it. I wish the candy corn was stronger though.

Release the Bats! (Pumpkin pie, warm apple butter, flaky pastry, caramel drizzle, topped with candy corn sprinkles)

Preliminary notes: I don't even need to say that this sounds amazing, because look at those notes. It sounds like a Halloween dessert explosion.

In bottle: Ohhh, yeah. That's a bunch of food, alright. I get the apple butter and caramel right off the bat (pun partially intended), and a bit of the pumpkin pie and pastry. It's largely apple, spice, and caramel though.

On skin: The one thing I'll always complain about when it comes to Sugar and Spite is how much I need to slather the oils on to actually be able to smell them. They have very little throw, unfortunately. At any rate, the pumpkin pie spices come roaring out of there once the scent hits the skin, followed closely by the apple butter and something sweet (which isn't discernible as either candy corn or caramel at this point). I get a note that almost reminds me of the honey in What's Inside a Girl, which is probably just a conglomeration of everything mixing together. This leans a bit fall candle-y, but I don't mind.

Verdict: 3 Halloween candles out of 5. I don't dislike this at all, but it's a bit generic as far as I'm concerned. The spices are also way stronger than anything else, so instead of being a giant pool of sweetness, it's mostly spice with a bit of sweetness behind it.

Hellsville (Campfire embers, clove leaf, bourbon vanilla, butter cookies, marshmallow fluff, roasted pecans, tonka bean, cedar)

Preliminary notes: I'm very curious about this one. It sounds very earthy, and I'm hoping the campfire note is relatively strong.

In bottle: So funnily enough, I get everything except the campfire. I can smell the butter cookies (which smell similar to the ones in The Chilly Biscuit), the pecan, clove, vanilla, marshmallows, and tonka. I don't get any wood or smoke whatsoever.

On skin: There's kind of an odd lemony thing going on here, which I don't really understand. I suppose it could be part of the butter cookie note. I don't get any campfire bits, or any of the heavier notes. It's just butter cookies, lemon for some reason, marshmallow, and maybe a bit of clove. It smells kind of soapy as well.

Verdict: 3 butter cookie-scented soaps out of 5. This isn't a bad scent, but it's definitely not for me. Womp womp.

These were both flops, unfortunately, but such is life.