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🖼️ Dorian (A Victorian fougere with three pale musks and dark, sugared vanilla tea)

Preliminary notes: I requested this as a free sample in my order in lieu of any other samples in my first order, since it's more expensive than other GC samples, and BPAL usually sends several (spoiler: they sent 4 more in addition to Dorian in the order I requested it in). I got the green light from the BPAL customer service team, and I'm very excited to try this! Dorian is one of the most reviewed BPAL scents I've seen.

It's worth noting that I've had Theodosius, the Legerdemain for years and love it, and it's the scent I see Dorian compared to the most. Theodosius is apparently less sweet and more citrus-heavy, so I'll probably add some comparison notes in here.

In vial: This is indeed very similar to Theodosius, but Dorian is definitely sweeter.

On skin: This reminds me of a mainstream perfume I used to have, but I can't remember the name of it*. As it warms on the skin, the similarities to Theodosius kind of melt away. There's a distinct green-ness to this scent, and there's an almost white pepper note in there as well. The bergamot in here is absolutely stellar, and the whole scent overall smells like a cup of Earl Grey tea with a heavy dollop of vanilla and sugar, but there are strange, shadowy tendrils spilling over the top of the cup.

I quite like this, actually, and I may have to upsize it in the future (a fellow BPAL forumite was selling their bottle of this a week after I wrote this review, and I did indeed upsize it. Thanks, carnival!). It's different enough from Theodosius to warrant having both. I can see why this is a fan favorite. Fans of Alkemia's Madam Pearl would probably enjoy this as well.

(*I think the vanilla reminds me a bit of Warm Vanilla Sugar from Bath and Body Works, which is one of my favorite commercial vanilla scents. I'm not at all bothered by that and am glad I was finally able to figure out what this reminded me of. It's not a dead ringer for Warm Vanilla Sugar at all, but the vanilla notes in both are similar to my nose)

Verdict: 5 corrupted Victorian tea parlors out of 5.


🍎 Les Bijoux (Skin musk, honey, blood-red rose, orange blossom, white peach, red apple, frankincense, myrrh)

Preliminary notes: None, other than "This sounds lovely."

In vial: The orange blossom, peach, and apple are the strongest notes. There's a veeery slight medicinal tinge in there.

On skin: This has quite the throw on it, wow. It's very much a honeyed, fruity-floral, which normally isn't my favorite kind of scent, but I do like this. It kind of reminds me of a fresher, lighter version of BPAL's Agrat-Bat-Mahlaht, which I need to get a bottle of at some point. This is a lovely springtime scent. I don't know if I'd upsize it or not, but I'll definitely use my sample when the weather warms up.

Verdict: 4 blooming orchards out of 5.


🕰️ The Antikythera Mechanism (Teakwood, oak, black vanilla, tobacco)

Preliminary notes: I've wanted to try this for yeeears but never have, for some reason.

In vial: Definitely heavy on the tobacco (which is glorious and rich), and the teak.

On skin: Ohhh, god. Bury me now, because I have died. This is a perfect balance of all of the notes, and that tobacco note is exquisite. It smells like an old Victorian cigar shoppe, and it's absolutely incredible. It's so evocative and warm. The oak comes out a bit more as it dries, but it's largely just a warm, woody tobacco scent with a touch of vanilla (akin to vanilla extract, maybe. Not a sweet or gourmand vanilla). I am in love. Upsized.

Verdict: 5 Victorian cigar shoppes out of 5.


🐎 The Black Rider (Black leather, opoponax, tobacco, black amber)

Preliminary notes: None.

In vial: Definitely leather, but there's also a high-pitched, almost citrusy note in there, and I'm not gonna lie, it kind of smells like leathery baby wipes. Huh.

On skin: The weird citrus/baby wipes thing goes away once it hits the skin, fortunately. It's still a bit bitter and slightly powdery, but everything melds warmly together, and it smells cozy yet foreboding and austere. The opoponax in here is fantastic. The leather reminds me of my beloved Rogue as well. The more it wears, the more I like it. It's a bit intoxicating.

Verdict: 4 austere leather jackets out of 5.


🔮 Morgause (A bouquet of five night-blooming flowers deepened by dusky violet, purple fruits, the barest breath of medieval incenses)

Preliminary notes: I've wanted to try this for so long, but it had been out of stock until this year.

In vial: Bouquet indeed. It's all funereal white florals in the vial.

On skin: Definitely violet-heavy, which I somehow missed in the description. I don't get any fruit and very little incense from this. It's a very pretty violet scent, with some spooky and almost misty florals behind it.

Verdict: 4 misty violets out of 5.
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Madam X (Bergamot, mandarin, dark violet, Italian iris, black orchid, Japanese incense, orris root, sueded musk, white sandalwood, Tahitian vanilla, pale patchouli)

Preliminary notes: I've sampled this so many times and had a bottle of it at one point, but it was a bit too mature for me at the time. The last time I received a sample of it, I fell in love with it all over again but still didn't repurchase it. After the July sale, I finally remembered it existed and got one. It has such a beautiful, classic silent film vamp vibe to it (moreso than Alkemia's Vamp, ironically enough), and being in my 30s now, it doesn't come off as too mature or too classic for me, though I can see how it still would for some. This review is for the ultime format.

In bottle: Super dark florals (violet and orchid especially), and sensual musk. Just as it used to be.

On skin: The florals are a bit stronger here than they are in the extrait version, but not by much. The citrus notes also seem to be a bit stronger, the mandarin especially. It still smells like a silent film vamp, and is absolutely exquisite. I can see how this would be too much for some people, but I think it's very decadently gothic and sultry. The ultime version, because of the amped citrus, is a bit brighter and not as heavy.

Verdict: 5 silent film vampires out of 5.


Une Nuit de Cleopatre (Egyptian kyphi incense, amber, warm caramel, tonka bean, vegan civet musk, spiced Sahlab tea, Satyrion orchid root, white honey, narcissus, jasmine, ylang ylang, honeysuckle)

Preliminary notes: This has been on my to-try list since its release. It sounds delightful. I'm not sure how the civet is going to behave, but other than that, it sounds right up my alley.

In bottle: Slightly biting florals, caramel, and tea primarily. very perfumey.

On skin: This is probably one of the warmest scents I've ever smelled. The honey, incense, caramel, and tea are still the strongest players, but the florals underneath those are gorgeous. It does conjure to mind the imagery of a dry desert landscape. It's very sensual and commanding, and I'm glad I finally tried it. Love this.

Verdict: 5 cups of tea swirled with caramel in a desert out of 5.


Drakon (Dragon's blood incense, coriander, vetiver root, ambergris, green cardamom, bergamot leaves, Talamanca del Caribe peppercorns, spice viburnum, freshly steeped Darjeeling tea)

Preliminary notes: Another one that's been on my list since it was released. Alkemia's Darjeeling note is fantastic, and there's nothing in here that gives me pause.

In bottle: So funnily enough, the peppercorn note is the strongest in the bottle, followed by the dragon's blood. I can smell the cardamom as well but not much else.

On skin: The various spice notes are definitely the strongest part of this. There is a bit of tea underneath that, but it's primarily peppercorns, coriander, and cardamom on my skin. The dragon's blood incense is very gauzy and light, and the whole thing brings to mind a scene of a spice tent with smoke swirling around it. It's a very exotic scent. The coriander can be a bit overbearing sometimes, but overall, I quite enjoy this.

Verdict: 4 spice tents out of 5.


This Summer Night (Tropical fruits, plumeria, pua kenikeni, cherimoya, coconut water, lychee blossoms, rhubarb, tonka, sweet alyssum, mock orangeflower, night-blooming jasmine, white florals, warm summer musk)

Preliminary notes: I never would have chosen this for myself, as I avoid fruit scents (especially tropical fruit scents) like the plague. They come off as either cloying or juvenile to me most of the time. I received this as a free sample in one of my July orders and fell in love with it.

In bottle: A tropical fruit explosion backed by a warm, gourmand-y vanilla.

On skin: Largely the same as in the bottle. Lots of luscious tropical fruits, a tiny bit of a humid floral vibe, and creamy vanilla. I don't usually go for tropical scents at all, fruity or not, so the fact that I like this is quite shocking to me. It's a perfect sweet (but not cloying) summer fruit fragrance.

Verdict: 5 baskets of tropical fruit out of 5.


Fairy Floss Alchemy (Cotton candy, white heliotrope, night-blooming jasmine, mandarin orange, vanilla orchid, ethereal musks)

Preliminary notes: This was August's free alchemy scent.

In bottle: Cotton candy on a backdrop of very clean florals and a bit of a tartness from the mandarin.

On skin: The vanilla orchid is definitely obvious on the skin, as are the cotton candy and mandarin. It's creamy and sweet but not juvenile. Actually, it kind of reminds me of All the Sins, but not as intense. This is kind of what I wanted Calliope smell like. It's a beautiful pink-white scent.

Verdict: 4 clouds of cotton candy out of 5.


Afterglow (Golden musk, Madagascar vanilla beans, woodsmoked black amber, chai tea, spiced rum, incense woods)

Preliminary notes: I have wanted to try this since it was first released, but never have for whatever reason. All of the notes sound lovely.

In bottle: I get the musk, rum, and woods but not much else. No tea or vanilla in the bottle.

On skin: The musk and amber combo in this scent reminds me of something else from Alkemia, but I can't pin what it is (La Flamme, maybe). The tea finally comes out on the skin, and the whole thing does have a very golden feel to it. It's very clean, which I wasn't really expecting, given the rum and woodsmoke notes. The vanilla veeery slightly teeters on the edge of being gourmand but never fully goes there. This reminds me a bit of Breath and Shadow from the 2024 fall release, but this isn't as heavy on the smoke note. It's a bit soapy, and I think pairing this with something lactonic (The Magpie's Rhyme maybe, or one of the Monster Milk scents from BPAL) might be worth trying.

Verdict: 3.75 soapy musks out of 5.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
These were all purchased during the first day of Alkemia's annual July sale. I'm very grateful that I was able to get everything I had planned on!

🍵 Arcanum Experiments 2024: 8: We Spilled the Teas (Green tea, mint tea, vanilla-infused white tea leaves, twig tea, ginger tea, Christmas tea)

Preliminary notes: I mean, it's tea. It's ALL tea. This is a no-brainer.

In bottle: I get the green and white teas and a bit of subtle spice right off the bat. Already a big fan.

On skin: This is so beautiful. So many different levels and varieties of tea, all very fresh and delicious. It smells somewhat festive as well. There's not much to say about this one, as it's very self-explanatory, but I adore it.

Verdict: 5 giant vats of tea out of 5.


🍂 Arcanum Experiments 2024: 7: Sweater Weather (Spiced apple cider, late season blackberries, cherrywood, warm pumpkin pie, woodsmoked vanilla beans, sandalwood, autumn leaves, clover hay, cashmere wool, anise, benzoin, golden amber, caramel coffee, toasted coconut, blue juniper, moss, bitter orange)

Preliminary notes: This sounds ambitious as hell, and I can kind of understand why it ended up as an Arcanum Experiment. Those are a LOT of notes to fit into one scent. It sounds like an autumnal, atmospheric dream nonetheless.

In bottle: Largely the cider, blackberry, and deep, dark fruit notes.

On skin: The autumn leaf note in this really comes alive on the skin, and I'm pretty sure it's the same one from Autumnalis and Feuillemort. It's very difficult to discern the notes apart from each other beyond the leaves and cider, but this is a dusky autumn evening in a bottle. It's atmospheric in all the right ways while also being grounded. I adore this, and I'm so glad I managed to get a bottle.

This is a morpher, too. It's initially very heavy on the leaves and cider, then it goes through a toasted coconut and coffee phase with some fruit notes in the background, and then it gets a bit smoky later in the drydown.

Verdict: 5 autumn evenings out of 5.


🍰 Arcanum Experiments 2024: 10: Mallow Drama (Pink frosted birthday cake, marshmallow ambrosia, strawberry rhubarb pie, blue cotton candy, kettle corn, almond macarons, chocolate fig squares, dulce le leche, fondant, gingersnaps, whipped cream)

Preliminary notes: This sounds like a very complex, gourmand dream. The strawberry rhubarb pie and kettle corn notes sold me.

In bottle: If candy corn was pink, this is what it would smell like. Very vanillic and sweet.

On skin: To be honest, this is such a complex scent that it's hard to make anything out individually. It's primarily a vanillic, sugary sweet marshmallow scent with a tiny dash of fruity sweetness. Very pink, very saccharine but in a good way. It feels like a younger sister to All the Sins. As it dries, the chocolate note comes out a bit, as do the other baked goods.

Verdict: 4 tables overflowing with sweets out of 5.


🌻 Jonquil Alchemy (Creamy white jonquils, grandiflora narcissi, Poet's daffodil, snowdrops, green daffodil stems, new grasses, late witch hazel blooms, a whisper of vanilla musk)

Preliminary notes: One of my favorite Alkemia scents that I no longer have is Musc de Jonquille, and this is the closest thing I've seen to it. The world needs more daffodil scents.

In bottle: Beautiful springtime white florals. From what I remember of it, I'd say this is Musc de Jonquille-adjacent, so I'm happy. Very green as well.

On skin: This initially reminds me of something I've smelled from BPAL before (Jasmine Cottage or The Queen of May, maybe). After a couple of minutes, it becomes a unique, stunning white floral with a snap of green stems, and a tiny bit of vanilla to temper it. This is such a pretty, elegant scent. Perfect for spring, but cool enough for summer or early fall as well. Something about it smells a bit funerary to me (which is a huge compliment).

Verdict: 5 elegant white florals out of 5.


🔮 Sorciere Rouge (Bakhoor incense, Tibetan agarwood, dragon's blood, rock rose, dark amber)

Preliminary notes: I had a bottle of this way back in the day and can't remember what it smelled like, other than being heavy on the dragon's blood note.

In bottle: A dragon's blood dream. There's a bit of a dampness to this one as well.

On skin: Damp incense, a bit of smoke, and a ton of dragon's blood. Just as I remember it. This is very witchy and mysterious. I don't have a ton to say about this one since it's pretty linear, but it's lovely.

Verdict: 4 tremendous plumes of dragon's blood-scented incense smoke out of 5.


🍭 All the Sins (Candy floss, candy corn, pink taffy, bullseye caramels, red licorice, benzoin, creamy vanilla musk)

Preliminary notes: Another scent I used to have. I already know what this one smells like. It's a pink gourmand dream.

In bottle: Just as I remember. Very pink, very sugary, very delicious.

On skin: Primarily candy floss, taffy, red licorice, and the vanilla musk. It's extremely sugary, so those who don't like sweet or gourmand scents would do best to avoid this one. I personally love it for its pink, frilly nature, and it reminds me a bit of Halloween candy. Very happy to have this again.

Verdict: 4.5 pink bags of candy out of 5.


🍁 Autumn (Sun-warmed fallen leaves, golden sunlit amber, light wool warmed with skin musk)

Preliminary notes: This is a scent I've wanted to get from Alkemia for yeeears. It seems to come back almost every time the July sale happens, and I finally snagged a bottle this time. I've tried (and loved) Autumnalis and Feuillemort, which sound to be in similar veins.

In bottle: Yeah, this is definitely in a similar vein to Autumnalis and Feuillemort. If Autumnalis was deeper and less soapy, it'd smell very akin to this.

On skin: This is such a dreamy olfactory portrait of a sunlit glade during autumn. The leaves, amber, and skin musk are all stunning, and it's very cheerful and relaxing. A perfect cozy sibling of Autumnalis and Feuillemort. I adore this so much.

Verdict: 5 autumnal glades out of 5.


🕯️ Offering (A forested glade, ritual incenses, offertory fruits, honeycakes, spiced ale, glowing beeswax candles)

Preliminary notes: I didn't get to try Offering when it was originally available many years ago, but I did try Honeycakes for Harvest Moon, which seemed to be its spiritual successor.

In bottle: I recognize the honeycake note, but this is mostly dark fruits and incense in the bottle.

On skin: This. Is. Stunning. The "forested glade" is a beautiful pine/fir note that sits in the background underneath the incense and honeycakes, and the ale comes out a bit as well. This is such a gorgeous celebratory blend, and I can't get enough of it. I would bathe in this if I could. It's a delightfully witchy gourmand with a woody edge.

Verdict: 5 rituals in the forest out of 5.


🌺 La Sirena (Oceanic aquatics, saline seaweeds, garlands of fresh Tiare flowers offered to the sea)

Preliminary notes: I was torn between this and Siren's Spell, but I wanted something with a bit more bite (plus this is discontinued and Siren's Spell isn't yet), and I'm hoping the seaweed notes deliver here.

In bottle: Beautiful aquatic notes, salt and seaweed. Cannot wait to skin test this.

On skin: This very, very strongly reminds me of Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Aqua Motu but floral and heavier on the saline notes. I was a bit worried this was going to be soapy, but it's not. It's a beautiful, picturesque marine scent with a floral overtone.

Verdict: 4.5 garlands of flowers floating on calm ocean waters out of 5.


🥥 Coconut Alchemy (Fresh white coconut, sugarcane, baby bananas, tuberose, ginger flower)

Preliminary notes: This was July's free alchemy scent.

In bottle: This is a classic, beachy, almost sunscreen-like scent.

On skin: The prettiest pina colada that ever did exist. This is a beautiful take on a tropical coconut scent. It smells like the image of a gauzy sundress blowing in the breeze on a white sand beach. I'm typically pretty apathetic toward coconut notes, but I really like this.

Verdict: 4 pina coladas on a beach out of 5.
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Barmbrack (Sweetened bread, dried fruit, fresh butter)

Preliminary notes: Yet again (there seems to be a theme here with these Vault scents), my bottle is 3 years old and hasn't really changed since I bought it.

In bottle: Warm, toasty, fresh white bread. This is the most photorealistic bread scent I've tried.

On skin: That bread note is just.. pure bliss. The butter is definitely there as well, and the dried fruits are baaarely, barely in the background. It's 95% fresh buttered bread with a tiny bit of fruit behind it for depth. I know Fyrinnae has released several other bread scents since I picked this one up, and I'm going to have to try those eventually.

Verdict: 5 freshly baked loaves of the most delicious bread you've ever had out of 5.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Ahoy! I didn't expect to be doing another review this soon, but my in-laws very kindly gave me some fun money for Christmas, and perfume oils are more or less the only "fun" things I buy these days. Bird's Nest in the Cowl got me hooked on Possets' gingerbread note, so I wanted to try more of their gingerbread scents, which was the main driving factor behind this order. Onward!


Gingerbread Jailhouse (Sweet, silky, and spicy gingerbread amped up with more ginger, smoothed out with a thick coat of light lemony sour cream frosting)

Preliminary notes: This sounds kind of thematically similar to Nui Cobalt's Gingerbread Sanctuary, which also had gingerbread and lemon icing notes (though that one also had a slew of other notes, including lavender, which this doesn't have). Bird's Nest in the Cowl is a fantastic gingerbread scent, but it doesn't have any sort of frosting notes. I'm hoping this leans a bit more gingerbread cookie-like than Bird's Nest, even though I adore that one.

In bottle: That classic Possets gingerbread note with lots of icing! It actually does smell like sour cream icing, which is delicious. I don't get any overt lemon, but I'm okay with that.

On skin: So this actually kind of is similar to Gingerbread Sanctuary, sans the lavender. It's sweet but not overly, and the lemon comes out when it's actually on the skin. I like it! It's a nice, bright, festive gourmand.

Verdict: 4.5 lemon-infused gingerbread cookies out of 5.


Gingerbread Whorehouse (European gingerbread, ginger, black pepper, clove, cinnamon, coriander, a kiss of pink pepper)

Preliminary notes: The name alone is hilarious, and I delighted in telling DH what it was called. I love spice notes, so this sounds fab. I'm hoping the clove in particular is relatively strong.

In bottle: This smells very similar to Jailhouse (they very obviously have the same gingerbread base), but it's much spicier and has bite to it. I can't make out any of the spices specifically in the bottle, but it's strong and a bit dark.

On skin: This reminds me of a mainstream perfume I used to have from L'Artisan Parfumeur called Tea for Two, oddly enough. They only really share the spice and gingerbread notes, so I'm not sure how that's possible, but it is! Tea for Two has a tobacco note that leans a bit ashtray-esque, and obviously, Gingerbread Whorehouse doesn't have tobacco in it, so it's a bit smoother and easier to wear. It has a sweet, creamy, frosting-like quality to it as well and is just really sexy. I love this.

Verdict: 5 festive cookie bordellos out of 5.


Pumpkin Pie (Pumpkin pie, spices that complement rather than cover up what it is, special crust made more like cake than an ordinary pie crust)

Preliminary notes: This has been on my wishlist for the last 2 years, and I finally bought it. I couldn't find any reviews of it, which is a bit of a bummer since I amp spice notes and wanted to know how strong they are here. I love Possets' pie scents and have 4 or 5 of them, so I'd imagine even if I end up amping the spices, it'll still be great.

In bottle: Much to my disappointment, this smells like 90% cinnamon in the bottle and a bit of butter/pastry. I get very little pumpkin, which I hope changes once it's on the skin.

On skin: It starts to smell more like pumpkin pie on the skin, but it's still very heavily spiced. The pastry notes do indeed smell more like cake than pie, which is really nice. The effect here ends up being a spice cake rather than a pie. I'm hoping the pumpkin note will come out more with age. DH immediately identified it as pumpkin pie and had no issue smelling the pumpkin note, so that could just be me.

(It's also worth noting that I amp cinnamon, but Pumpkin Pie smelled cinnamon-heavy before I put it on as well)

Verdict: 3 heavily-spiced pies out of 5.


Orion (Oud, rare and unexpected woods, smoked vanilla)

Preliminary notes: This was an upsize from a free sample. I was initially scared to open the sample vial, because oud can either be really good or really bad, but I finally ended up doing it.

In bottle: VERY woody in the best way possible. I can't actually smell the oud at all. Either that, or this particular oud just doesn't smell like other ouds I've smelled. It's a very dry, woody scent.

On skin: I suppose you could call this masculine, but it reads as more unisex to me. The woods are dry and strong, and there's a bit of a sweet, smoky, peppery tinge to them. The vanilla doesn't read as outright vanilla to me and serves as a means to sweeten the blend up a bit so it's not so austere. This is a perfect fall/winter scent, and I adore it. It smells like a haunted forest. It's foreboding and mysterious.

Verdict: 5 fog-laden, haunted forests out of 5.

Lovechild - Lovebaby (Peach shortbread and sweet fruit sauce cascading over the lovely confection)

Preliminary notes: This was an unexpected addition to the package these arrived in. I had ordered Lovebaby in part of my first Yule order, but it arrived with a broken cap (the likes of which I have never seen before in my life. The middle of the cap was somehow completely separated from the band, and it was unfortunately unusable), which I contacted them about immediately, and they refunded the price of the bottle. I saw a note on the invoice saying they'd changed suppliers for their caps and then looked down and saw a mysterious 5th bottle in my package. Lo' and behold, it was a replacement bottle of Lovebaby, which I had no idea about until I opened it.

Possets' customer service is the best I've ever experienced, and I will never stop happy-yelling about it.

In bottle: Veeery fruity. Weirdly enough, my nose isn't registering it as peach. It smells like some sort of sweet berry or maybe another stone fruit.

On skin: Something about this is a tiny bit soapy, which isn't what I was looking for. I don't get any shortbread, either. Just lots of very sweet fruit.

Verdict: 3 cups of fruit sauce out of 5. I'm going to retest this at a later date, but as of right now, it's way too syrupy-smelling. DH said, "You should smell like that all the time. It smells good!"

Chocolate Incense (free sample) (Sandalwood, amber, frankincense, chocolate)

Preliminary notes: I typically stay away from chocolate notes, so I wouldn't have chosen this myself.

In vial: I mean, it smells like what it says it'll smell like. Resinous chocolate. I don't hate it.

On skin: Something about this smells a little bit salty and odd. The chocolate note veers into Sharpie territory on me, which is definitely not my thing.

Verdict: 1 chocolate-scented Sharpie out of 5. Not for me at all.

Thank you for reading! I do have another Possets review in the works, but I very inconveniently got sick the day after the package showed up, so I need to recover from that first. Stay tuned!
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Hello! Long time, no review, as it were. Bit of a preamble incoming.

I'd seen Possets mentioned around IMAM numerous times over the years but had never tried their stuff before. I placed two orders in early February and two additional ones in mid-February (reviews for the latter two coming soonish), and they all shipped within a week or so of the orders being placed. Being in Canada, I was worried about having to pay duty fees, since the first shipment was a fairly large one, but no duty was owed (woo!).

The oils were all wrapped well in little chiffon bags, and there was a small satchel of lavender in there as well. Some of the labels were a bit scuffed, but I make my own top labels and have all of my oils kind of cramped together without the side labels visible anyway, so that doesn't bother me personally.

I've included my fiancé's thoughts (who I'll refer to as DH in this post) as well as my own, since he's become increasingly more interested in The Hobby™ throughout our relationship. As a bit of a background, he tends to think most things either smell like baked goods (which he likes) or cleaning products and doesn't like anything overly cologne-y/perfume-y. Without further ado, reviews!



JFK and Jackie (The finest leather, oakmoss, tabac blonde essence, a whiff of tea, silk)

Preliminary notes: Several reviews I've come across cite this one as smelling classy and expensive. I'm a leather, tea, and tobacco fiend, and throwing "classy" in the mix is definitely my vibe.

DH's preliminary notes: Maybe it smells like a biker who went through the forest while drinking tea? An elderly biker with tea in a Thermos?

In bottle: So this is a great deal subtler than I was expecting. The tea (which smells like Earl Grey) and tobacco are definitely there, along with a touch of the oakmoss. Veeery little leather. This reminds me of L'Artisan Parfumeur's Tea for Two but softer.

DH's thoughts: It's very sweet. Perhaps kind of floral? The immediate thing that comes to mind for me is girly. It's very girly. A red Jolly Rancher? *reads him the notes* Oh, I smell the tea now! Damnit.

On skin: Ah! There's the leather. It's a very soft, worn type of leather as opposed to the interior of a new car. The leather note mellows quite a bit after about half an hour, and the tea becomes the focus again. This is absolutely classy, refined, and elegant. It smells expensive. Leans slightly masculine but not enough to bother me, and it goes a little soapy in the drydown, but again, not enough to bother me. DH wore Adamus and I wore this one day, and they go very well together as companion scents. I love the tea note in this so much.

Verdict: 5 classy politicians out of 5. I adore this.



Midnight Mass at Old St. Mary's (Resinous incense, polished wood pews, beeswax candles, offertory fruits)

Preliminary notes: I have a soft spot for churchy incense blends despite not ever being a church-goer (minus like, one summer at bible school that my neighbor dragged me to when I was a kid), and I'd wager this is going to be similar to a lot of church-inspired scents I've tried before. However, there are never too many!

DH's preliminary notes: Someone doing cabinetry beside a bee's nest (followed by both of us cry-laughing).

In bottle: The incense is the first detectable note, followed by some nondescript fruits or wine and a bit of dusty wood. The beeswax is waaay in the background, but I like it thus far. Something about it smells old world-y, and it's indeed very churchy. Like a very old wooden pseudo-cathedral with artful religious depictions on its stained glass windows, lit solely by candlelight which catches on various brass fittings inside the church.

DH's thoughts: There's something almost minty in there. Maybe mint and leather?

On skin: This smells virtually identical on skin as it does in the bottle, but the resins are very slightly amped and go a bit spicy.

Verdict: 4 slightly dilapidated churches out of 5. Was hoping for a bit more beeswax, but this is still very nice and will get much use.



🌼Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione (Blue lilac accord, white hawthorn, three white musks)

Preliminary notes: The house next to ours when I was a child had huge, beautiful lilac bushes that were always in full bloom during the spring/summer, and the street leading up the hill was lined with them on one side as well. The scent of lilacs has always been intensely nostalgic to me, and I crave it during the warmer months of the year. I moved from a small farming town to a concrete jungle of a city last year, so getting to smell lilacs again would be a nice little slice of home amongst the sirens and cramped alleys here.

DH's preliminary notes: Walking through a garden in the southern United States.

In bottle: Virtually a lilac soliflore (which I love), with a little bit of depth. Exactly what I was hoping for. My heart is happy.

DH's thoughts: Definitely a floral note. It's almost like some sort of garden flower.. huh. I swear I've smelled that before.

On skin: This explodes on the skin in a cloud of purple and green hues as soon as it leaves the bottle and goes a little aquatic. Still largely a lilac soliflore, and I still adore the hell out of it. If I get really close to it, I can kind of make out the musk, which smells almost like sugar cookies (?) and warms the lilac note up a bit.

Verdict: 5 majestic lilac bushes out of 5. A winner from start to finish, and intensely nostalgic.



🌹The Velvet Riding Habit (The most beautiful of rose and the sexiest of leather)

Preliminary notes: If memory serves, Hexennacht's 50 Shades was the first scent I encountered that was just a rose/leather combo, and I fell in love with it. More or less hoping this has the same kind of feeling to it while still being its own thing.

DH's preliminary notes: A pervert's Valentine's Day.

In bottle: This one's interesting. The leather and rose blend together so well that I'm having trouble distinguishing them from each other. The rose is very fresh and lifelike, and almost fruity.

DH's thoughts: Is there honey in that? I feel like I've smelled that before. Why do I keep thinking about a beach somewhere? It slightly reminds me of certain types of suntan lotion, I think that's why.

On skin: About the same as in the bottle. Jammy rose and leather.

Verdict: 3.75 pervy roses out of 5. Something about this goes slightly musty on my skin, which I'm not into. I'll see if aging it changes that. It's definitely not a bad smell overall, and it deserves another chance in the future. DH really likes this one.

Edit: Tried layering this with BPAL's Iago to bring out the leather more, and it just ended up smelling bubblegummy. For whatever reason, the leather in this just.. doesn't really exist. To the aging box it goes. Maybe a few months' rest will bring out the leather a bit more. It is a really nice rose, and I'm too stubborn to just give up on it outright.



🍮Nell Gwyn (Pink cedar, cream, Thanksgiving pudding)

Preliminary notes: I'm Canadian and grew up in an Italian household, so I have no idea what Thanksgiving pudding is. Is it cakey like sticky toffee pudding, or is it a custard pudding? I guess we'll find out. Either way, this sounded delicious, and I read a review on the forum that cited it as layering well with Hungarian Rhapsody.

DH's preliminary notes: A preppy Thanksgiving party.

In bottle: I still can't tell if it's a cakey pudding or a custard one (I think it's both), but this is very creamy and spicy with a bit of a bready and nutty background. It does smell very festive and delicious. I would eat this if it were a food.

DH's thoughts: Caramel. Some sort of nut? If not caramel, then toffee? Something that belongs in some sort of baked good. It smells like it tastes good.

On skin: That bit of nuttiness comes to the forefront, along with various baking spices and a bit of the woodiness from the cedar. It smells similar to sticky toffee pudding without the toffee, if that makes sense. Still delicious and festive, still want to eat it. I'm very excited to layer this with Hungarian Rhapsody at some point.

DH's thoughts: If you weren't a snack before, you're definitely food now. (Needless to say, we both love this)

Verdict: 5 delectable festive desserts out of 5. This is a stellar gourmand and probably my favorite scent of the bunch.

Edit: I did the thing. I layered this with Hungarian Rhapsody, and it is amazing. The spice in Nell Gwyn brings out the woody characteristics of the tobacco in Hungarian Rhapsody, and that same woodiness plays off of the cedar in Nell Gwyn. It's a delicious combo, and I highly recommend trying it.



🚬Hungarian Rhapsody (Tobacco, pipe smoke, a burning cozy fire)

Preliminary notes: So again, tobacco fiend here. I've tried countless tobacco blends from various houses over the years, but nothing's really stuck out to me in the way I've wanted. A true cigar scent is what I've been after, which seem to be few and far between.

DH's preliminary notes: Grandpa's story time (with more cry-laughing on my part).

In bottle: That tobacco note reminds me of a BPAL scent I had at one point (and may still have), but I have no idea what it is. It smells like freshly dried tobacco, as opposed to stale cigarettes or an ashtray, and I'm kind of in love. It's very warm and almost honeyed. Nowhere near as smoky as I was expecting, but that's okay.

DH's thoughts: I know you're gonna hate hearing this, but soap. Not just any kind of soap, but decorative soap. Like Lush. *jaw drops when I tell him what the notes are* No fucking way.

On skin: Ahhh, this is so cozy on. Delicious, chewy, honeyed tobacco and a tiny bit of smoke. Not acrid at all. Still reminds me of something I had at one point but I can't pin it.

Verdict: 5 storytimes with Grandpa out of 5. This is probably the coziest tobacco scent I've ever smelled, and it's very comforting. I expected this to be a smoke bomb (which would have been fine, as I'm a smoke fiend), but it was pleasantly toasty and almost cuddly instead.



🍯The Girls Love Vanilla! (Vanilla, honey)

Preliminary notes: Honey is one of my favorite notes (and one of my fiancé's least favorite, it seems), and every house's honey notes are different. The unlisted tobacco note cited on the Possets forum by numerous people was what ultimately sold me on this, plus if I'm being completely honest, I love the art in the listing. I adore honeybees.

DH's preliminary notes: Soccer mom who secretly smokes (??).

In bottle: Whoa. Fruit punch or fruit-flavored gum? Not sure where the honey, vanilla, or surprise tobacco notes are, because this is all sharp, sugared fruits, specifically berries and pear. This is really cloying, and I am confused. If I try really hard, I can find a toffee/taffy note similar to Lush's Honey I Washed the Kids, but it's buried underneath all of that saccharine fruit. This one needs to age for a bit, I think.

DH's thoughts: How unusual. This one kind of excites me a little bit. Like, I'm having sexual thoughts. The first thought that came to my mind was red lipstick.

On skin: Still cloying, still fruity, still confusing. This scent is so frustrating, because it feels like it's on the precipice of being something great but it's not quite there. I think this is one for the destash box. That weird fruity edge ruined this for me, unfortunately, and it makes me nauseous.

DH's thoughts: It seems like it's very close to the same, but it brings out the honey a bit more. It doesn't seem so balanced. I don't like it as much on your skin as I do in the bottle. (He later decided that he didn't know if he actually liked it in general)

Verdict: I don't want to give this a flat zero, so I'll give it 1 sad beehives out of 5. This has no redeeming qualities for me, and I can't stand it.



🌿Adamus (New mown hay, tobacco flower, sweet green moss)

Preliminary notes: This was a gift for DH that he chose for himself (kind of). He initially chose it for me, but it sounded like it would lean too masculine, so I decided to pick up a bottle for him instead. He likes more natural scents and is also a tobacco lover, so this sounds right up his alley.

DH's preliminary notes: Just sounds like a tobacco plantation.

In bottle: Like JFK and Jackie, this also reminds me a bit of L'Artisan Parfumeur's Tea for Two a bit, but less astringent and ashtray-like and grassier. It's very fresh and a bit peppery.

DH's thoughts: I can smell the grass. It actually smells like a freshly-cut lawn but with something else added to it, which is obviously the smoke you're having after you've cut the lawn.

On skin: More or less the same as in the bottle. DH's skin amps the pepperiness a bit.

DH's thoughts: I like it. Spice me up! (He later said that he really likes this and wore it the day after we did the initial review, so it's a hit for both of us!)

Verdict: 5 sexy lawn mowings out of 5. I adore this, DH adores this, and I adore it on him.



🌸Alabama (Pink fizzy mimosa, white magnolia, Canebrake jasmine, Mexican tuberose, Martinique gardenia, frankincense)

Preliminary notes: I love white florals, magnolia in particular, which is why this one caught my eye. Despite never having been to the South, I love Southern-inspired scents.

DH's preliminary notes: Vacation in Cancun.

In bottle: Ahhh, yes. Dreamy, fresh white florals that punch you in the face a little bit, with a creamy and sultry backdrop. Love this. Despite the florals being white, it smells purple (tuberose always does this to me, so I'm blaming that), which is my jam.

DH's thoughts: Weird question. Is there ivory in this? I hate going back to this, but is there a floral note in here? There's a little bit of something.. not spicy on top of it, but something that can kind of compensate near the end. Like a lemon? (Props to DH for picking out the lemony nuance in frankincense, because I can't smell it at all in here)

On skin: Virtually the same as in the bottle, but the frankincense is slightly detectable now. The florals are very fresh and lifelike. I'm in love.

Verdict: 5 white floral bouquets to the face out of 5. This is a stunning white floral scent, and I could not be happier with it.



🧈Reason (Rev. 1) (Five vanillas, three toffees, butter, cream)

Preliminary notes: Ah, the main... reason... for making my first Possets order. Toffee and caramel are some of my favorite kinds of candy, and I love the smell of both. I've been on the hunt for a good toffee/caramel scent for a long while.

DH's preliminary notes: Uh, candy store in England.

In bottle: I get that weird fruity note from The Girls Love Vanilla initially, and then the same toffee note from BPAL's Drink Me (which I love). I don't know that this is necessarily my dream toffee/caramel scent, but it's really nice.

DH's thoughts: A muffin. Is there pie in this? I sooo think with my stomach. ARE YOU WRITING THAT DOWN?! I feel like it's some kind of musk in there, one of those colored musks. No? For fuck's sakes.

On skin: Okay, so something definitely changes once it hits my skin. The weird fruity note is completely gone, and I can actually smell the toffee and butter/cream notes. There's a very, very slight tinge of coconut in there. It's tasty but not quite as robust as I was hoping for. It's pretty light.

Verdict: 3.75 candy stores out of 5. I think this one needs to age for a bit before I form a definitive opinion on it. It's too light at this stage to really know. I do really like the toffee and cream when I can smell them though.

Edit: I think I was a bit hasty when skin testing this, because the coconut tinge isn't there anymore, and it is pretty robust. It smells like creamy molten caramel and is almost boozy. I'm gonna bump this up to a 4 out of 5.



💐Silver Carnations (Rev. 1) (Silver accord, carnation)

Preliminary notes: So for context, I haven't tried any of the other Possets Silvers (I have Pavane coming in the mail but haven't smelled it yet), so I'm not familiar with the base at all. However, I decided years ago in my idealistic, sappy daydreams that I wanted carnation to be a main facet of my eventual wedding day scent. Solstice Scents' Lace Draped Spectre was what I had in mind initially, but I gave my bottle away a long time ago. I figured Silver Carnations might be a good alternative, since LDS is almost always out of stock when I go to look for it (or I'm conveniently broke when it's restocked).

DH's preliminary notes: Breakfast in a palace, but a second-tier palace.

In bottle: Oh boy. Very green and spicy carnations, a green note that smells like dandelion sap, and gorgeous vanilla musk hiding beneath it. This is really pungent stuff, which is not what I was expecting. Not a dupe for LDS, since this is much stronger, but it's definitely in the same vein.

DH's thoughts: Whoa, that is different. There's definitely not a food note in there that I can detect. There's something kind of natural about it though. Like a flower growing on the side of a tree, or maybe the tree itself. Pine? Is there tree in there at all? Fuck. Well, I'm gonna quit while I'm ahead then.

On skin: Oh.. okay. The carnation goes a bit musty, which is sad. It's very deep though, and it does smell realistic. I guess I can kind of liken this to carnations in a graveyard, which fits my aesthetic just fine. This one has ridiculous lasting power and was still very strong after washing my arm off.

Verdict: 4 very aggressive carnations out of 5. I do like this, but my fuck, is it ever strong. If aging mellows it out a bit, it'll be a 5 out of 5 for sure.



Free Sample #1: Black Tea (Black tea, incense)

In vial: To be completely honest, I don't know what I'm smelling beyond chewy incense resins. It's really nice, but not in any way what I'd call a tea scent. I'm excited to try this on skin.

DH's thoughts: Mmm, candy. Minty candy?

On skin: If I get really close to it, I can smell dried tea leaves, but again, it's mostly incense resins. There's a bit of a weird salty/powdery note in there as well that gets really strong the longer I wear it. I don't think I'm keeping my sample of this.

Verdict: 2 weirdly salty teas out of 5. If this had stayed the way it was in the vial, I would have loved it. No upsizing here.



Free Sample #2: Asmita (Pink grapefruit, black pepper, sandalwood, patchouli)

In vial: ... chocolate? Something about the grapefruit and pepper mixing together is giving me a cocoa vibe, which I can't say I'm particularly fond of (I reeeally detest chocolate/cocoa in perfumes). I won't be skin testing this.

DH's thoughts: Oh, that DEFINITELY reminds me of something. Like a Maraschino cherry. It smells not real.

Verdict: 3 phantom chocolates out of 5. While it's not for me, it's not an objectively bad scent. Not upsizing this, needless to say.

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DISCLAIMER

*All products mentioned were purchased by me unless otherwise stated.

*All photos and graphics used are my own unless otherwise stated.

c. Jan 2, 2019.

*Update 06/01/2025:* Given the tumultuous situation between the US and Canada right now including tariffs, reviews after the ones listed below are on hold indefinitely. It doesn't feel safe to purchase oils from the States anymore without the anxiety of potentially getting slammed with extra fees, so I won't be purchasing any for a while. I may explore Canadian companies at some point, but for now, I'm on an indefinite hiatus (minus the reviews below, which are all ready to post. I just have to stop being lazy about it).

UPCOMING REVIEWS

🥀 Alkemia 🥀

Angel's Kitchen
Hexenhausen
Rosa Alchemica
Foxfire
Viridis Arcanum
Surcie
Slice of Heaven Alchemy
Vanille Single Note
Winter Forest Alchemy
Taste of Rain
Attar al Oud
Bibliotheca
Baccante
Green Carnation
Sadzi
Moon Lust
Affaire de Coeur
Carmen 7
Silver Sky
Luminae (2025 revisit review)
Rose Rouge Layering Note
Gilded Alchemy
Deus Ex Machina
Haunted & Bewitched
Love Flight of a Candy Heart
Earthlight
Ecstasies of Light
Honored Ghosts
Come to Me
Ambre Gris (2025 revisit review)
Vert sur le Vert (2025 revisit review)
Lilacs Along the Winding Drive (2025 revisit review)
Siren's Spell
The Lady's Yes
The Lover Tells of the Rose (2025 revisit review)
Love Among the Ruins
Rose Musk
Persian Tea Room (2025 revisit review)
Pheromone P28
Arcanum Experiments 2023: 6, 7, 14, and 15
Ambre Aquae
Memoirs of a Woman of Pleasure
Arcanum Experiments 2024: 9: Getting Lit
A Roll in the Hay (2025 revisit review)
Tulips & Chimneys
Novella
Caliph's Beloved
Candybox Alchemy


(Also attempting to review everything in my collection that hasn't been reviewed yet, so stay tuned for From the Vault posts)

CREDITS

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