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Pumpkins Crave Wraiths (Ghostly white vanilla, Black Mission figs, gossamer wraith musk, gingerbread, sheer coconut milk, pumpkin)

Preliminary notes: My bottle is just over a year old.

In bottle: Spiced pumpkin and something fruity (the fig note). Fairly straightforward.

On skin: The way the fig interacts with the gingerbread and the other notes in here is really interesting. It's very obviously fruity, but it smells.. spooky, for lack of a better word. It smells almost tea-like. I don't get the coconut milk at all, but I do get some vanilla underneath the scrumptious fig/gingerbread/pumpkin combo. This is kind of an odd scent, but in the best way possible.

Verdict: 4.75 spooky fruits out of 5.
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🥀 Memoriam (Heirloom roses, woodsmoke, a scattering of ashes)

Preliminary notes: The first time I ordered Memoriam was 5 years ago. My bottle got a bit funky over time, and I ended up tossing it even though it was one of my favorite Alkemia offerings. When Alkemia put up their last chance updates a while back and Memoriam was in there, I decided I was going to pick it up again, since I might not get the chance in the future. I loved the scent itself, so.

In bottle: Just how I remember; spicy, resinous, burning rose bushes on a background of embers.

On skin: Exactly the same as the bottle, with the smoky notes deepening a bit. I adored this years ago, and I adore it just as much now. It still very much reminds me of Type O Negative, too.

Verdict: 5 burning rose bushes out of 5.


🏖️ Sea Girl (Beachy ozone, warm skin musk, wild jasmine, sugarcane, double pearl tuberose, hibiscus tea, coconut water, key lime, mandarin, white rum, clean white patchouli)

Preliminary notes: I've had my eye on this for a while now, and I finally took the plunge (no pun intended). It sounds light and airy but also slightly sultry.

In bottle: This smells very odd in the bottle. I get something very green and fresh right off the bat, along with something watery, and lastly, something salty.

On skin: This really shines once it actually goes on. The tuberose is nice and bubblegum-y, and everything blends together really well as opposed to how it was in the bottle. It smells like an elegant, Old Hollywood lady sitting on the beach with oversized sunglasses and a huge brimmed hat on. It also reminds me of Sea Goddess a bit, so if you like that one, you'll probably like this as well.

Verdict: 4.75 Old Hollywood ladies sitting on beaches out of 5.


🌊 Voice of the Sea (Salinaceous sea breezes, sun-bleached driftwood, crushed seashells, a twist of Meyer lemon peel, barnacles, mineralistic sand, seasoaked timbers)

Preliminary notes: Much like Sea Girl, Voice of the Sea has been on my radar for a while. I love a good beachy atmospheric, and I'm very curious to see how the lemon note plays with everything else.

In bottle: "A twist" of lemon peel is very, very modest. It's mostly lemon with some woods and sea air in the background.

On skin: Something in this is pulling almost cinnamon-esque on me, and I have no idea what it is. Unfortunately, it starts going kind of soapy, which is disappointing. Then after the soapy phase, it goes quite mossy, which is interesting. I can definitely see the imagery of lemon trees on a beach on an overcast/rainy day.

Verdict: 3.75 lemon trees on a beach out of 5.


🍵 Tea Garden Alchemy (An elegant springtime tea party of green tea leaves, jasmine white tea, cascading cherry blossoms, delicate Japanese garden florals)

Preliminary notes: I love tea scents, and I love Alkemia's tea notes in particular, so I was delighted when my order qualified for this gift. I'm hoping the florals don't veer into soapy territory.

In bottle: I definitely get the teas and florals. I'm picking up on either lily or some other kind of white floral.

On skin: My nose really doesn't know what to make of this. I do like it, but that indole is intense. I'm hoping some aging evens it out a bit. I do really love the tea notes in this one.

Verdict: 3.5 tea gardens out of 5.
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Vanilla Craves 90s Malls (Bright fluorescent lights, glossy watermelon-flavored lip gloss, a ziplock baggie of fresh, green bud, sticky vanilla-laced marshmallow treats)

Preliminary notes: My bottle is just over a year old.

In bottle: Hoooo boy, that is W A T E R M E L O N. I can smell a very teeny bit of the weed behind it, but it's mostly old school, 90s watermelon cosmetic flavoring. I cannot tell you how many watermelon-flavored lip balms I went through in the 90s/early 2000s, and this smells exactly like them, minus the waxiness.

On skin: So it's still mostly watermelon, but the weed note definitely comes out more on the skin, so it kind of smells like a combination of watermelon bubblegum and cannabis, which is really nostalgic and summery.

Verdict: 5 watermelon-flavored bubblegum bubbles in a room hazy with weed smoke out of 5. Love this, love this, love this.
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Silken Tent (Candied angelica, chrysanthemum, tuberose, clove flowers, jasmine-scented rice pudding, blonde caramel, golden amber)

Preliminary notes: This review is for the ultime version. My bottle is just shy of 3 years old.

In bottle: I mean this in the best way possible: this smells incredibly mainstream. If you're used to mainstream scents and want to get into indies, Silken Tent is a great gateway scent for that. I get something spicy, the caramel and rice pudding, and some nondescript floral notes.

On skin: Honestly, it's really difficult to tease apart the notes for this one. It's definitely a flormand, and it has the tiniest bit of a spicy edge. It's sweet and creamy without being cloying. I mentally refer to this as one of my fancy perfumes, because it is very elegant and put together. I do get more of the rice pudding now than I did when I purchased it, which is interesting. It's leaned more gourmand as its aged.

Verdict: 4.75 fancy rice puddings out of 5.
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Honey Craves Coffee Shops (Roasting coffee beans, honey-drizzled cake, freshly baked vanilla cookies, soft, overstuffed chairs, a hint of steamed milk)

Preliminary notes: As previously stated in several reviews, I am a coffee scent fiend despite not being able to drink coffee IRL. This kind of sounds like Marshmallows Bite! + coffee almost, so if that's the case, I'm not gonna be mad at it.

In bottle: In the bottle, this smells almost identical to Marshmallows Bite! I don't get any coffee whatsoever, which is a bummer.

On skin: Theeere's the coffee. It's still fairly subdued, but it's at least noticeable now. The baked goods are a bit more golden than they are in Marshmallows Bite!, but the scent overall is still very similar to it. The honey note in this is very pronounced and realistic, and "honey-drizzled cake" is very apt.

Verdict: 4 bakeries that also double as coffee shops out of 5. I like this but am a bit disappointed by how subtle the coffee note is and how similar it is to Marshmallows Bite! Oh well.

Pumpkins Crave Pointe Shoes (Creamy pumpkin and Korintje cinnamon with Arcana Wildcraft's Two Finger Ballet (French vanilla créme, white amber, sugared vanilla beans, caramel, and the smallest dab of opium))

Preliminary notes: I haven't tried OG Two Finger Ballet, but I do have Strawberries Crave Indulgence, which I love. A pumpkin version of that sounds delicious.

In bottle: Oh, that is lovely. It's very creamy, spicy, and dark with a bit of an edge.

On skin: This is sublime. Pumpkin and caramel on a spicy, slightly resinous backdrop. The cinnamon is pretty dry and doesn't veer into Red Hots territory. As an added bonus, I accidentally touched my wrist to my mouth while reviewing this, and I can confirm that it does not taste nearly as nice as it smells. Do not ingest oils, kids.

Verdict: 5 caramel-y pumpkin desserts out of 5. I adore this.

Pumpkins Crave Quietude (Soft vanilla, white amber, white musk, Mysore sandalwood, sweet pumpkin, a tiny pinch of white pepper)

Preliminary notes: From what I understand, this is basically Haint + pumpkin, which sounds lovely. I haven't tried OG Haint, so I won't be able to compare to that.

In bottle: Much like my experience with Peaches Crave Haint, this smells cool-toned. The white pepper is more pronounced here, and the pumpkin smells like a pumpkin pie as opposed to fresh pumpkin puree or something.

On skin: Peppery, spicy pumpkin. I'm actually shocked there isn't cinnamon in this, because it definitely smells like it. It almost smells like unlit pumpkin incense as well.

Verdict: 4.75 sticks of spiced pumpkin incense out of 5.

Vanilla Craves Enchanted Cottages (Banana flambé, vanilla créme anglaise, a rose garden sanctuary covered in morning dew, rose geranium, ylang-ylang, bananas dipped in brown sugar, sweet cacao, sheer almond, gnarled pine branches from the deep woods)

Preliminary notes: Whether or not this actually belongs in the autumnal review post is debatable, but I figured enchanted cottages and witchy things were close enough. At any rate, I love banana notes, and this sounds amazing.

In bottle: Bananaaaas. Lots of bananas. This isn't like candy-banana though. It does smell sweet but it's almost buttery. This is a lot more complex than just banana as well. The rose-banana combo is interesting, because they have very similar scent qualities. I liiike.

On skin: On skin, the banana recedes quite a bit, and the florals bloom pretty intensely. I can't make any of them out in particular, but the whole thing smells slightly spooky. There's something in here I don't care for, and I can't tell if it's one of the florals or the almond.

Verdict: 3 bananas frolicking in a forest out of 5. The florals are pretty overwhelming once it hits skin, and there's a very distinct burnt smell going on as well. There's a little bit too much going on in this one for me.

Honeys Crave Smoldering Cauldrons (Buckwheat honey, dark earth, long tendrils of cauldron smoke reaching up to the sky, damp, decaying leaves, wild chanterelles, blackened lavender stems, dried tea leaves, wildflowers)

Preliminary notes: Lavender isn't my favorite note, but look at that note lineup! How can you resist that if you're darkly-inclined and into witchy things? I've seen a lot of fungi notes, but never chanterelles specifically. This sounds very complex and interesting.

In bottle: Oh! I love this already. I can't make anything out specifically, other than the cool dirt and a bit of tea, but it smells amazing. It has an almost aquatic quality to it. Something about it reminds me of one of the beaches near our place, though it doesn't smell beachy at all (I'm in western Canada, so beaches here are lakes with a lot of trees and grassy patches).

On skin: This is a dead ringer for interior BC lakes/beaches. It's uncanny, which makes no sense since none of the notes are indicative of that. It's incredibly evocative and nostalgic for me, and despite the heavy notes, it's a perfect summer scent.

Verdict: 5 hometown lakes out of 5.

Pumpkins Crave Nog (Pumpkin flesh with rich eggnog, sugar cookies, Tahitian vanilla, cinnamon, and a spike of Arcana Wildcraft's Holy Terror (burning frankincense, sandalwood, deep myrrh, and dusty beeswax candles))

Preliminary notes: This sounds decadent as fuck, like a pumpkin trifle.

In bottle: To be completely honest, I don't know what I'm smelling here. I get a bit of the cinnamon, but there's some sort of savory note in there, and something boozy.

On skin: I don't get any eggnog whatsoever, but it does kind of smell like pumpkin pie ice cream. The cinnamon note is really nice and dry. The mystery savory note disappeared as well, so what's left is a warm, very slightly smoky pumpkin pie scent with a bit of a creamy note with it.

Verdict: 5 bowls of pumpkin pie ice cream out of 5.
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Barmbrack (Sweetened bread, dried fruit, fresh butter)

Preliminary notes: Yet again (there seems to be a theme here with these Vault scents), my bottle is 3 years old and hasn't really changed since I bought it.

In bottle: Warm, toasty, fresh white bread. This is the most photorealistic bread scent I've tried.

On skin: That bread note is just.. pure bliss. The butter is definitely there as well, and the dried fruits are baaarely, barely in the background. It's 95% fresh buttered bread with a tiny bit of fruit behind it for depth. I know Fyrinnae has released several other bread scents since I picked this one up, and I'm going to have to try those eventually.

Verdict: 5 freshly baked loaves of the most delicious bread you've ever had out of 5.
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Lilac & Gooseberries (Lilac, gooseberries)

Preliminary notes: My bottle is 3 years old, and the only change I can discern from when I bought it brand new to now is that the fruit notes have deepened a bit. In checking Strange Fire & Fumery's website, this appears to not be available anymore.

In bottle: Deep, dark purple fruits and a bit of a sharp floral.

On skin: The lilac note gets a lot less sharp on the skin, and the gooseberries are right there along with it. They both vye for attention but are well-balanced here. The whole thing ends up smelling mysterious yet clean and fresh.

Verdict: 5 lilac bushes doused in gooseberry juice out of 5.
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Welcome to a new series! From the Vault will explore perfumes that have been in my collection for years that I haven't reviewed yet.

Silfra (Ocean water accord, brine)

Preliminary notes: My bottle is just shy of 3 years old, but it smells the exact same now as it did when I bought it 3 years ago.

In bottle: This has always reminded me of the way sea grass looks underneath the water. Swirls of green and yellow waving gently with the currents. There's a distinct plant note of some sort in here (grassy), and the brine isn't salty or pickle-y. It smells like wet grass and lake water.

On skin: Pretty much identical. It's one of my favorite summer scents. It's light and aquatic, and a touch grassy as well, which makes it really refreshing.

Verdict: 5 bunches of sea grass swaying in the water out of 5.
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Magnolia Au Vert (Fresh white magnolia blossoms, bright spring grass, lily of the valley, green mandarin, musky vanilla)

Preliminary notes: I adore magnolia, but it's not a note I see much in indie perfumes. This sounds really cheerful and springlike.

In bottle: Definitely white and green, and slightly citric. There's something almost salty in the bottle, which I'm not super keen on. I think it's something in the mandarin note playing off of the musky vanilla.

On skin: So we went from citric and salty to citric and powdery. The lily of the valley becomes very loud and overtakes everything else, with a bit of the grass note peeking through. I'm quite disappointed with this. It's not really about the magnolia at all.

Verdict: 1 faux magnolia out of 5. This completely misses the mark for me, and is all about lily of the valley, powdery vanilla, and screechy citrus notes. It ends up smelling like powdery baby wipes. Pass.
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Hello! Yet another Possets review. They had a 23% off New Year's sale, and I had a few things on my list that I wanted to pick up, so what better timing. I then placed a second order a few days later and asked that the orders be combined into one shipment, so this post is a combination of two orders. Special thanks to the Possets crew for allowing me to essentially place a custom order after the Halloween scents were taken down. Their customer service is honestly the best I've ever come across in my 15+ years of online shopping.

(I got sick shortly after the package arrived, and then we started the process of buying a house, so these reviews were very delayed.)


Air on a G-String (Cranberries through smoke)

Preliminary notes: As I mentioned in my Yule reviews, I love cranberry notes and wish I saw them more often. Cranberries and smoke sounds like a divine combination.

In bottle: Incense-y, almost wine-like cranberries. This is lovely and decadently dark.

On skin: Surprisingly earthy! It smells a bit like dragon's blood, but obviously fruity, and also a tiny bit salty. It has a very dark, vegetal feel to it. The cranberry note doesn't explicitly smell like cranberry; it's not sharp, it's not "red," and it's not tart. The whole thing really just smells like wine-scented incense, which is absolutely my thing. For a scent that only has two listed notes, Air on a G-String is very complex.

Verdict: 4.5 sticks of wine incense out of 5.


Moonbux (True Arabica cuppa mocha, freshly ground coffee, a large amount of cream, a shot of vanilla)

Preliminary notes: I adore the smell of coffee, despite the fact that I can't drink it. This is toted as "the ultimate coffee scent," so hopefully it lives up to that.

In bottle: It does indeed smell like a fancy cup of coffee, but there's something almost baked underneath it. I'm not sure if it's the vanilla/cream or part of the coffee accords, but it smells delicious.

On skin: Yeah, Possets wasn't kidding. This is the mother of all coffee scents. Super strong coffee note, a bit sweet, and a tiny bit nutty. It has pretty decent throw as well. I'm pretty picky about my coffee scents (a lot of the time, coffee notes get overshadowed by other things or just aren't strong enough for me), but I love this and would gladly swim in it. The balance of the notes here is masterful, and it's a phenomenal scent overall. Definitely an immediate favorite from this house.

DH said "Holy chocolate!" when he smelled it on me, and it does have a fairly strong, dry chocolate note in there, but I get more coffee than anything else personally.

Verdict: 5 swimming pools full of the fanciest coffee you've ever had out of 5.


Spook (Candied apples, popcorn, candy corn)

Preliminary notes: Somehow, this is only the second Fall/Halloween scent I bought this year (You can see I didn't keep to that). I love autumnal gourmands, and I love seeing candy corn as a note. This should be great.

In bottle: Veeeery slightly soapy, sweet red apples. I don't get anything else.

On skin: The apples are still the main note here, and they lose their soapiness on the skin. The popcorn is just beneath them, which is very slightly buttered and quite salty. I don't get any candy corn until later in the drydown, which just adds a sweet warmth to everything. It's very fun and delicious, and it reminds me of what a Halloween-themed carnival would smell like.

Verdict: 4.5 Halloween carnivals out of 5.


Xmas in New Orleans (Creamy, thick white florals)

Preliminary notes: I started missing spring toward the end of December and decided I needed to figure out a way to summon it. This was an attempt at that.

In bottle: White florals for sure. A bit on the powdery side, but I'm hoping that goes away on the skin. (After resting this for a week, the powderiness is gone and has been replaced by a lemony tinge, which I'm assuming is probably from a magnolia note.) Overall, it kind of reminds me of a floral version of Madame X.

On skin: This is.. not what I was expecting. White florals, yes, but it's very powdery and just kind of smells old? It smells like household cleaner instead of actual flowers. I get the tiniest bit of something akin to coffee underneath that, which is just a bizarre combination. I'm not a fan at all.

Verdict: 0 sad Christmases out of 5.


Pre-Raphaelite Seductress (Carnation, chocolate, incense, white musk)

Preliminary notes: I love pre-Raphaelite anything, so this is a winner thematically. I'm not the biggest chocolate note fan, but I do love incense and carnation, so we'll see.

In bottle: This smells almost boozy, like clove-laced rum or something. The carnation is very spicy, and the incense deepens everything. I don't get chocolate as an outright note.

On skin: Unfortunately, on the skin, this goes slightly soapy. Carnation is still the strongest note, followed by the musk and a tiny bit of incense. It's VERY perfumey, and the soapiness only gets stronger as it dries. It's a pass for me.

Verdict: 1.5 disappointed Pre-Raphaelites out of 5.


Rougarou (Candy corn, coriander, toasted sugar, sweet musk)

Preliminary notes: More candy corn scents, please! I'm curious to see how strong that note actually is here.

In bottle: This smells similar to Iowa to me, but a bit lighter and with a different kind of bite.

On skin: Strangely herbal! Mostly toasted sugar and sweetness, but there is a bit of an herbal edge to it from the coriander. It still has some resemblance to Atropos' Slip, in that it smells like sugar cookies. There's something about this scent underneath the sugary sweetness that smells ethereal. It brings to mind imagery of a witch's cottage and is very interesting.

Verdict: 4 ethereal sugar cookies out of 5.


Atropos' Slip (Delicious yellow candies dripping in butter (like homemade candy corn), combined with a cookie treat the likes of which you have only tasted once)

Preliminary notes: This sounds simply scrumptious. Candy corn and cookies? Yes, please.

In bottle: Something akin to sugar cookies, and a ton of syrupy sugar on top of that. Slightly similar to Rougarou. The candy corn is definitely detectable here.

On skin: So it definitely smells like there's a bit of cinnamon in this. It smells like spiced raw cookie dough in the best way possible. I don't get candy corn itself, but I do get a bit of creamed butter. Overall, it very much smells like cookies.

Verdict: 4 spiced cookies out of 5. I wish the candy corn was stronger, but I still really like this.


Danse Macabre (Strong black tea, leather, a hint of black musk, lemon zest)

Preliminary notes: Danse Macabre has been my favorite classical composition since I was a kid, and I love Possets' tea notes, so this was a no-brainer.

In bottle: Dark, dark, dark. The leather is strong, as is the tea. It smells very foreboding and commanding (which is absolutely my kind of vibe).

On skin: Something about this goes very piney on the skin, almost camphorous. The lemon is very sour as well. It starts mellowing into a very dark, brooding tea scent with a heavy leather backdrop. It's one of the weirdest scents I've ever smelled, which I mean in the best way possible. I couldn't stop sniffing my wrist while writing this.

Verdict: 3.75 tea-stained pages of sheet music out of 5. I think I need to give this time to mellow and grow on me. It's a very unique scent.


Sloe Byrne (Rum, butter, sugar, caramel)

Preliminary notes: I've wanted to try Sloe Byrne for a couple of years now, but every time I go to look for it, it's not available (because I didn't realize it was in a specific retour collection). It sounds a little simplistic compared to a lot of the other Possets stuff I've tried, but I love all of the notes.

In bottle: Fruity and dusty, which is a problem I've had with other The Girls Love scents (I'm assuming the Les Girls collection is an offshoot of that one). Disappointing, but it might be better on the skin. Past the dusty fruit, it smells like butterscotch Lifesavers.

On skin: VERY dusty. I don't get any of the listed notes. Just sweet, slightly fruity dust (which again, is a known issue with my skin chemistry and Possets' honey scents). Not a fan at all, and a second and final lesson that I need to stay away from Possets' honey scents. As it dries down, it takes on a Play-Doh quality, so this is a huge bust on me. Womp womp.

Verdict: 0 sheets of dust-covered sugar out of 5. I've had an extremely high hit rate with Possets over the last year, so an eventual miss was bound to happen. Take this with a grain of salt, as everyone's skin chemistry and sense of smell is different. What smells like sugary dust on me could smell amazing on you!


Halloween (Incensy, spicy, manages to capture the width of a dimming blue October sky)

Preliminary notes: A very vague description, indeed. Various people on the Possets forum said this one was smoky or smelled like leaves, so that's enough for me.

In bottle: Smoky, charred wood with maybe a hint of vanilla and dried leaves. Fans of Alkemia's Smoke & Mirrors or NAVA's Bonfire would probably like this.

On skin: SUPER incense-y, somewhere on the dragon's blood spectrum. It's smoky, a bit spicy, and very fall-appropriate. There's a bit of a candle wax/candle smoke edge to it, which is fascinating and very much fits the witchy vibe it already has going. This reminds me of my late teens/early 20s when I used to burn Vampire Blood incense constantly, and also reminds me of the goblet my sister used to burn her incense sticks in when I was a kid, which was surrounded by books on witchcraft. This is absolutely perfect for fall and Halloween, or for when you want to feel extra witchy.

Verdict: 5 goblets holding sticks of burning incense out of 5.


Illusion (Falsifiers) (Black tea, brown sugar edge, a wollop of frankincense, a beautiful but unexpected pumpkin)

Preliminary notes: This has been on my list for a while. Pumpkin and tea sounds lovely.

(Also, the original description says "blown sugar edge," but virtually every review of this one I've read says it smells like brown sugar, so I'm assuming it might be a typo)

In bottle: Everything is here and accounted for on first sniff, and I can't really explain just what it smells like. It's a bit fall candle-y, which isn't something that bothers me, but it also smells elegant and refined on top of that.

On skin: Largely the same as in the bottle. The tea takes an almost cinnamon edge on the skin, and the pumpkin becomes incredibly buttery. As I'm writing this, the cinnamon is amping into Red Hots territory, which is a very common thing for me, so take that with a grain of salt. Overall, it kind of smells like having a cup of tea while eating a slice of spiced pumpkin pie.

Verdict: 4 spicy pumpkin pies with tea out of 5. I wish I didn't amp cinnamon as much as I do, but other than that, it's a lovely scent.
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Ahoy! I didn't expect to be doing another review this soon, but my in-laws very kindly gave me some fun money for Christmas, and perfume oils are more or less the only "fun" things I buy these days. Bird's Nest in the Cowl got me hooked on Possets' gingerbread note, so I wanted to try more of their gingerbread scents, which was the main driving factor behind this order. Onward!


Gingerbread Jailhouse (Sweet, silky, and spicy gingerbread amped up with more ginger, smoothed out with a thick coat of light lemony sour cream frosting)

Preliminary notes: This sounds kind of thematically similar to Nui Cobalt's Gingerbread Sanctuary, which also had gingerbread and lemon icing notes (though that one also had a slew of other notes, including lavender, which this doesn't have). Bird's Nest in the Cowl is a fantastic gingerbread scent, but it doesn't have any sort of frosting notes. I'm hoping this leans a bit more gingerbread cookie-like than Bird's Nest, even though I adore that one.

In bottle: That classic Possets gingerbread note with lots of icing! It actually does smell like sour cream icing, which is delicious. I don't get any overt lemon, but I'm okay with that.

On skin: So this actually kind of is similar to Gingerbread Sanctuary, sans the lavender. It's sweet but not overly, and the lemon comes out when it's actually on the skin. I like it! It's a nice, bright, festive gourmand.

Verdict: 4.5 lemon-infused gingerbread cookies out of 5.


Gingerbread Whorehouse (European gingerbread, ginger, black pepper, clove, cinnamon, coriander, a kiss of pink pepper)

Preliminary notes: The name alone is hilarious, and I delighted in telling DH what it was called. I love spice notes, so this sounds fab. I'm hoping the clove in particular is relatively strong.

In bottle: This smells very similar to Jailhouse (they very obviously have the same gingerbread base), but it's much spicier and has bite to it. I can't make out any of the spices specifically in the bottle, but it's strong and a bit dark.

On skin: This reminds me of a mainstream perfume I used to have from L'Artisan Parfumeur called Tea for Two, oddly enough. They only really share the spice and gingerbread notes, so I'm not sure how that's possible, but it is! Tea for Two has a tobacco note that leans a bit ashtray-esque, and obviously, Gingerbread Whorehouse doesn't have tobacco in it, so it's a bit smoother and easier to wear. It has a sweet, creamy, frosting-like quality to it as well and is just really sexy. I love this.

Verdict: 5 festive cookie bordellos out of 5.


Pumpkin Pie (Pumpkin pie, spices that complement rather than cover up what it is, special crust made more like cake than an ordinary pie crust)

Preliminary notes: This has been on my wishlist for the last 2 years, and I finally bought it. I couldn't find any reviews of it, which is a bit of a bummer since I amp spice notes and wanted to know how strong they are here. I love Possets' pie scents and have 4 or 5 of them, so I'd imagine even if I end up amping the spices, it'll still be great.

In bottle: Much to my disappointment, this smells like 90% cinnamon in the bottle and a bit of butter/pastry. I get very little pumpkin, which I hope changes once it's on the skin.

On skin: It starts to smell more like pumpkin pie on the skin, but it's still very heavily spiced. The pastry notes do indeed smell more like cake than pie, which is really nice. The effect here ends up being a spice cake rather than a pie. I'm hoping the pumpkin note will come out more with age. DH immediately identified it as pumpkin pie and had no issue smelling the pumpkin note, so that could just be me.

(It's also worth noting that I amp cinnamon, but Pumpkin Pie smelled cinnamon-heavy before I put it on as well)

Verdict: 3 heavily-spiced pies out of 5.


Orion (Oud, rare and unexpected woods, smoked vanilla)

Preliminary notes: This was an upsize from a free sample. I was initially scared to open the sample vial, because oud can either be really good or really bad, but I finally ended up doing it.

In bottle: VERY woody in the best way possible. I can't actually smell the oud at all. Either that, or this particular oud just doesn't smell like other ouds I've smelled. It's a very dry, woody scent.

On skin: I suppose you could call this masculine, but it reads as more unisex to me. The woods are dry and strong, and there's a bit of a sweet, smoky, peppery tinge to them. The vanilla doesn't read as outright vanilla to me and serves as a means to sweeten the blend up a bit so it's not so austere. This is a perfect fall/winter scent, and I adore it. It smells like a haunted forest. It's foreboding and mysterious.

Verdict: 5 fog-laden, haunted forests out of 5.

Lovechild - Lovebaby (Peach shortbread and sweet fruit sauce cascading over the lovely confection)

Preliminary notes: This was an unexpected addition to the package these arrived in. I had ordered Lovebaby in part of my first Yule order, but it arrived with a broken cap (the likes of which I have never seen before in my life. The middle of the cap was somehow completely separated from the band, and it was unfortunately unusable), which I contacted them about immediately, and they refunded the price of the bottle. I saw a note on the invoice saying they'd changed suppliers for their caps and then looked down and saw a mysterious 5th bottle in my package. Lo' and behold, it was a replacement bottle of Lovebaby, which I had no idea about until I opened it.

Possets' customer service is the best I've ever experienced, and I will never stop happy-yelling about it.

In bottle: Veeery fruity. Weirdly enough, my nose isn't registering it as peach. It smells like some sort of sweet berry or maybe another stone fruit.

On skin: Something about this is a tiny bit soapy, which isn't what I was looking for. I don't get any shortbread, either. Just lots of very sweet fruit.

Verdict: 3 cups of fruit sauce out of 5. I'm going to retest this at a later date, but as of right now, it's way too syrupy-smelling. DH said, "You should smell like that all the time. It smells good!"

Chocolate Incense (free sample) (Sandalwood, amber, frankincense, chocolate)

Preliminary notes: I typically stay away from chocolate notes, so I wouldn't have chosen this myself.

In vial: I mean, it smells like what it says it'll smell like. Resinous chocolate. I don't hate it.

On skin: Something about this smells a little bit salty and odd. The chocolate note veers into Sharpie territory on me, which is definitely not my thing.

Verdict: 1 chocolate-scented Sharpie out of 5. Not for me at all.

Thank you for reading! I do have another Possets review in the works, but I very inconveniently got sick the day after the package showed up, so I need to recover from that first. Stay tuned!
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Hullo, and happy holidays! I had originally planned on picking up a couple of things from other shops for Christmas, but 'tis the season for FOMO, so a lot of what I'd had my eye on sold out by the time I had the opportunity to place an order. I reached out to Possets in November and asked if they were having any upcoming sales, and they said yes. A 25% off Thanksgiving sale was too good of a deal to pass up, so here we are. A lot of these had been on my wishlist for a year or more.


🕯️ Luminaria (A similarity to butter cremes, a real nod to candles, a shot of cold, cold outdoor air)

Preliminary notes: I was looking for something candy cane-ish, and this is one of the closest things I could find in the Possets catalogue. I do enjoy buttermints as well, so I have high hopes for this one.

In bottle: Very faint in the bottle, but I do get a slightly boozy buttermint thing going on.

On skin: Still very faint and buttermint-y. There is something akin to candle wax going on as well. I read reports of there being a chocolate note on the forum, but I don't get any cocoa or chocolate from this at all. I wish this wasn't so faint!

Verdict: 2.5 pillowy buttermints out of 5. This disappeared from my skin after not even 30 minutes, so it's definitely not for me. Oh well.


🍪 The Lullaby (The very gingerbread house from the famous scene, filled with cream and red currants)

Preliminary notes: I got bitten by the gingerbread bug while looking at the Yules and had to get a few gingerbread scents to appease it. I'm not super into fruity scents, but I'm hoping the currants are fairly subdued.

In bottle: Very fruity! The currants are tart, and the cream is sweet. The gingerbread smells a bit more savory than sweet and is quite subtle in the bottle.

On skin: Very herbal, spicy currants. I don't get any cream or gingerbread, unfortunately. The red currant overpowers everything else.

Verdict: 2.5 houses made out of red currants out of 5. I'm going to try aging this to see if it balances things out a bit better.


🥧 Cranberry Pie (Spice, cranberry, caramelized juices, pie crust)

Preliminary notes: I LOVE cranberry in perfumery, and I wish it was a note that was used more often.

In bottle: I know this is supposed to be a pie scent, but to me, this smells just like cranberry cookies. The cranberry note in this is sublime, and it does smell a bit caramelized.

On skin: This is just delightful. Caramelized cranberries and pastry notes, with a gentle hit of spice. It's very soft and smells like a cranberry baked good that just came out of the oven. There's something slightly vanilla-y in there as well, so it smells like a warm cranberry dessert with a scoop of ice cream on the side, or whipped cream. Very Christmas-y and cheery.

Verdict: 5 warm-from-the-oven cranberry desserts out of 5.


🥛 Yule Posset (Cream with velvety vanilla and a bit of a rummy character)

Preliminary notes: I adore eggnog *so* much, and the full description for this heavily hints at it. I have not come across an eggnog scent that's realistic yet, so hopefully this one breaks the chain.

In bottle: Oh my god. An eggnog scent that ACTUALLY smells like eggnog. It's a miracle! There's something soft and almost cashmere-like in there as well, along with the rum. Delicious.

On skin: Still eggnog-y but very perfumey once it hits the skin. It's still the most realistic eggnog scent I've tried, so I'm very happy with it. The rum is warm and slightly spiced as well.

Verdict: 5 glasses of rum-spiked eggnog out of 5.


🍌 Banana Cream Pie (Banana, sweet cream reduced to custard, cane sugar, spices, golden lacy crust)

Preliminary notes: I remember this one being in my cart last winter, but I never actually bought it. Bananas are probably my favorite fruit, and DH and I were obsessed with a local restaurant's banana pudding when I first moved in with him. I've had banana cream pie scents from other houses that just kind of fell flat, so hopefully this one doesn't do that.

In bottle: Exactly what it sounds like. The bananas smell like they've been caramelized, poured into a pie crust with custard, and smothered in whipped cream.

On skin: This is sublime. It's a perfect banana cream pie/custard scent. I'm in love. This is a very straightforward scent, but it's SO good. Banana lovers, keep an eye out for this one!

Verdict: 5 banana cream pies smothered in whipped cream out of 5.


🧈 Buttermilk Pie (Buttermilk, butter, sugar, pie crust)

Preliminary notes: I don't have much to say about this one beyond, "It sounds tasty."

In bottle: This is quite faint in the bottle and smells pretty powdery, which I wasn't expecting.

On skin: The weird powderiness goes away once it hits the skin, fortunately. This is a fairly straightforward buttermilk dessert scent, and it's lovely. It's very soft and veers on the edge of being a skin scent. This makes a really lovely sleep scent and is quite comforting.

Verdict: 4 soft buttermilk pies out of 5.


❤️ Lovechild - Cranbaby (Tart cranberry dances merrily with a smooth dulce le leche)

Preliminary notes: More cranberry! This sounds like a really interesting pairing.

In bottle: Straight up cranberry juice. I don't get any dulce le leche at all (which is fine). So tart!

On skin: Very much still cranberry juice, and it is TART. I love it. There's something warm beneath that, which could be the dulce le leche, but it's very hard to actually make out.

Verdict: 5 towering mountains of cranberries out of 5.


🥃 Damned Souls (Hot buttered rum, a huge bag of marshmallows )

Preliminary notes: This one was kind of a last minute cart addition compared to the rest. I've loved hot buttered rum in other scents I've tried it in, and while I'm not keen on eating marshmallows, they'd probably add a nice soft sweetness here.

In bottle: This smells almost cookie-like. There's a distinct baked good smell coming from somewhere in here. Maybe the marshmallows are toasted?

On skin: Yeah, I'm putting all of my eggs in the toasted marshmallow basket, because this smells very baked, if that makes sense. It almost smells like caramel corn, which I'm also a fan of. This is mouthwatering.

Verdict: 5 popcorn balls out of 5.


🍬 The Gluttons' Delight (Artisanal jams, elegant truffles, endless buttered salted toffees, rivers of cream)

Preliminary notes: Ah, the only scent in this review that isn't a Yule scent. This was from the Halloween Retour, and it sounds too damned good not to try. Again, I don't love fruity notes, and chocolate isn't my favorite thing in perfumery either, but it all sounds delicious.

In bottle: I don't know what I'm smelling here, but it's none of the notes listed. It's almost pine-y? Hm.

On skin: The jam notes are definitely the strongest, with a bit of cream in the background. I don't get any chocolate or much toffee, to my dismay. It does smell like fancy desserts though.

Verdict: 3.5 jars of jam out of 5. I hope aging does this some good and the chocolate and toffee notes come out more.


🎄 The Ghost of Christmas Present (Balsam pine, tangerines, a roaring fire in the fireplace)

Preliminary notes: Ever since I smelled Deep Midnight's White Christmas, I've been chasing a very specific fir/pine/citrus combo. I'm not looking for a dupe at all, but the combination of fir and orange in White Christmas is intensely nostalgic to me, so I'm hoping for the same feeling here.

In bottle: In the bottle, this is absolutely in the same vein as White Christmas, but a bit deeper. The tangerine is very bright, and the whole thing is very warm and cozy.

On skin: As it says on the tin, this is a beautiful pine, citrus, and smoke scent. The smoke note is fairly subtle but is definitely there, the citrus smells warmed, and the pine is stunning. Possets' evergreen notes are dreamy.

Verdict: 4.5 citruses by the fire out of 5.


🍫 Bird's Nest in the Cowl (Bitter chocolate, bread pudding, Bavarian cream sauce, European gingerbread)

Preliminary notes: Kind of another last minute addition. More gingerbread, but also, more chocolate? What are you thinking, Femmenstein? (My justification is, "Yes, but bread pudding and cream sauce!")

In bottle: Now THIS is a gingerbread scent. It's very dry, but it's classic gingerbread and very realistic.

On skin: Still very gingerbread-heavy, but the bread pudding also makes itself known. This is one of the driest gourmands I've tried, but it's fantastic. I adore the gingerbread note in this.

Verdict: 5 sheets of gingerbread cookies out of 5.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Ammil (Wet snow, melting ice, velvety skin warmth)

Preliminary notes: I've wanted to get my hands on this one since it was released. It sounds like it'd have a similar vibe to Woods on a Snowy Evening, which is one of my favorite Alkemia offerings.

In bottle: Slightly boozy and minty, almost eggnog-y? Definitely not what I expected, but I like it.

On skin: Definitely minty/camphorous, but not overwhelmingly so. The eggnog and booze vibe goes away as soon as it hits the skin. This is kind of like a sister or cousin scent to Woods on a Snowy Evening, but it's also very different and lacks forest notes. There's a phase of this that almost smells like Sharpies from a distance, which is kind of jarring. Aside from that, Alkemia's ice/snow notes are very distinctive, and I can smell them here. They do smell wet, and very slightly lemony. It definitely needs to rest for a while.

Verdict: 3.75 puddles of melted snow out of 5. I like this, but I think it has some maturing to do before it reaches its full potential. It does morph around quite a bit throughout its wear. It goes through the Sharpie phase, a lemony phase, an herbal phase, and a soft snow phase to name a few. A very interesting scent. I can't wait to see how this does with a few months' rest.


For Love of Winter (Luminous white amber, cool snow musk, candy canes, white chocolate pearls)

Preliminary notes: I love everything in this. Alkemia's white amber is sublime, I love their snow notes, and I love candy canes and white chocolate.

In bottle: Ugh, yesss. Smooth, sweet candy canes without being a mint explosion. This is lovely.

On skin: This is sublime. By far the best candy cane note I've come across. It's distinguishable as candy canes and not just peppermint, and it's not in your face. It smells like elegant candy cane bark, and I'm totally here for it.

Verdict: 5 massive slabs of candy cane bark out of 5. I knew I'd love this, and I do. I wouldn't change a thing about it.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Ahoy! I've never tried Pulp before, but when DH offered to buy me some oils as an anniversary/Christmas gift, I figured I might as well try them since Ajevie had some holiday scents left over, and not many other houses had their holiday stuff out yet at that time.

When What to My Wondering Eyes (Peppermint candy stick swirled into a rich dark chocolate mocha, a festive splash of Irish cream)

Preliminary notes: I don't usually vibe with chocolate notes, but given that there's peppermint and coffee in it, it should be okay. I do really love peppermint hot chocolate.

In bottle: Peppermint-flavored Irish cream! I don't get any of the mocha in the bottle.

On skin: Creamy peppermint and nothing else. I can make out the chocolate if I basically shove my nose against my wrist, but it's very faint in comparison to the mint.

Verdict: 3.5 boozy candy canes out of 5.

Embrace (Pumpkin shortbread with butter, apricot preserves, brown sugar)

Preliminary notes: The description for this reminds me a lot of Solstice Scents' Kitchen, but a bit simpler.

In bottle: I don't get any pumpkin or shortbread, but I do get a looot of apricot, which borders on floral here. It smells like something a high society woman in her 40s would wear, and I mean that in the best way possible. It reminds me of my aunt, who is one of the most elegant women I've ever met.

On skin: The apricot note is very loud, but it's a nice apricot at least. I get a small bit of pumpkin on the skin, but the shortbread note takes quite a while to actually come out. It's not a bad scent at all, but it's VERY fruity, which isn't really my style.

Verdict: 3.5 jars of apricot jam out of 5.

Update: Rest has done this wonders, and the apricot is now a supporting player instead of the star of the show. I can actually smell the pumpkin shortbread now! I'm bumping the score up to 4.5.

Cathedral of Trees (Crisp cold air, cedar tips, pine boughs, towering fir and spruce, snow-strewn forest floor, frankincense, myrrh)

Preliminary notes: In re-reading the notes, this sounds very similar to Alkemia's Falling Stars on Winter Solstice, which is one of my favorite winter scents. Not surprised at all that I gravitated toward this.

In bottle: It is indeed similar to Falling Stars on Winter Solstice, but it's got a very distinct dirt note, and it's not as smoky. I like it!

On skin: Still very similar to Falling Stars on Winter Solstice, but there's a very distinct sweetness in this one. It smells a bit more tart than Falling Stars as well, and it's missing the smoke note. I'm definitely okay with having both.

Verdict: 5 snow-laden forests out of 5.

Apres-ski (Hot buttered rum by the fireplace, golden amber, blonde wood, the warm glow of gemütlichkeit)

Preliminary notes: This just sounds cozy as hell, really. I love a good buttered rum note for winter.

In bottle: I get something buttery (not rum), and something fruity and floral? A bit of soap as well. Definitely not what I was expecting from this.

On skin: Wood-scented laundry detergent. Damnit. I don't know if it's the amber or the glowy note that's doing it, but that's really unfortunate.

Verdict: 1 bottle of woody laundry detergent out of 5.

And to All a Good Night (Sugary and gently-spiced holiday cookies fresh from the oven and drizzled with caramel, creamy eggnog spiked with coffee liquer and sprinkled with a dash of nutmeg and cardamom, the smooth, pale aged wood of a well-loved rolling pin)

Preliminary notes: Allll the holiday baking, please. I love eggnog and would love to see more scents utilizing it as a note.

In bottle: I get a very obvious cookie scent (sugar cookies, to be precise), and a bit of smoke. No eggnog or coffee in the bottle. There is a touch of wood in there too.

On skin: The cookie note is STRONG in this one, which is exactly what I wanted. The caramel finally reveals itself once it's on the skin, but it's still very subdued. I can get some of the coffee liquer if I try really hard, but no eggnog. Damn. This is still a knockout of a holiday gourmand, so I can't even be mad at it.

Verdict: 4.5 holiday baking bonanzas out of 5. I wish the eggnog was a stronger note, but it's still delicious.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
To be completely honest, NAVA's been a brand I've largely avoided for the most part. For one, they don't ship to Canada anymore (these were ordered through Ajevie) so I have to go through decanters, and the idea of having an "absolute" of an accord doesn't make any sense to me. Having to go digging to find out what's actually in said accords is also a bit of a pain.

That being said, I've always wanted to try their stuff since I've heard such rave reviews. When Ajevie put up the Halloween leftovers on their site, I figured it was time.

Bonfire (Cardamom essence, Bastet's Ice Cream absolute, burning embers accord, toasted vanilla marshmallows, Studio Limited Crystalline Vanilla absolute, Bastet's Musk)

Preliminary notes: I am a huge sucker for a well done toasted marshmallow note, and I love smoky scents, so I'm hoping this is the best of both worlds.

In bottle: This smells very similar to Alkemia's Smoke & Mirrors, but a bit less smoky. I'm a fan so far!

On skin: Still very similar to Smoke & Mirrors (which is fine by me, since it's one of my favorite bonfire scents). The cardamom is present, and the blend overall is sweeter than Smoke & Mirrors. The marshmallow note is barely there but does smell toasted. I love this.

Verdict: 5 vanillic bonfires out of 5.

Vintage Dracula (Caramel accord, warm caramel sugar glazed candy, sea salted caramel accord, cinnamon, chocolate candy, sweetened condensed coconut milk)

Preliminary notes: It's no secret that I love caramel. I love foods that contain it, I love the way it looks, and I especially love the smell. For whatever reason (me being super picky, probably), I haven't come across too many realistic caramel notes in indie scents. Alkemia's Dusk in Autumn has a brilliant one, but I haven't come across too many others. This sounds amazing, and the label is fantastic as well.

In bottle: Very caramel-heavy, unshockingly enough. There's a very light citrus tinge to it, as well as a tiny bit of chocolate. It does smell pretty Halloween-esque.

On skin: Shockingly, it still smells like caramel. It actually reminds me of Solstice Scents' Halloween Night a little bit, despite not having a licorice note listed. It's very Halloween-appropriate.

Verdict: 4.5 Halloweens out of 5.

Vintage Werewolf (Candy corn accord, vanilla, wax accord, black patchouli, lycan musk accord, French vanilla, buttered almond, skin musk)

Preliminary notes: More candy corn scents, pleeease. I'd imagine it's going to be a fairly subtle note in there, but still. All the candy corn scents.

In bottle: This is very patchouli-forward, which I wasn't really expecting. It's nice patchouli, and not the headshoppy, dirty kind. I can't smell much beyond the patchouli in the bottle.

On skin: I'm 99% sure the "lycan musk" accord has some sort of evergreen in it, because that's what I'm getting mixed with the patchouli. I get a bit of buttery sweetness on top of that, but no specific notes. Definitely isn't what I was expecting, but it's still a really nice patchouli-forward fall scent.

Verdict: 4 werewolves eating buttery candy in a patchouli forest out of 5. I like this more the longer I wear it. I wish the candy corn was stronger though.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Update Dec 5, 2022: I reached out to BPAL about whether or not they'd reformulated Mouse Circus, and their answer was no. They asked if I'd be okay with them sending me a replacement bottle at no cost to me, and I accepted. The new bottle smells exactly the way I remember, so I'm not sure what was going on with the bottle I had when this review was written. Excellent customer service, as always!

A smol, single review! I want to start reviewing odds and ends from my collection that never made it into haul reviews, and while this doesn't really count since it's something I ordered recently, it's still good practice for that upcoming series. I ordered this in mid-October.

Mouse Circus (A toodle oodle of pink cotton candy noses, vanilla spun sugar fur, scattered kernels of popcorn, a touch of polished golden wood)

Preliminary notes: Ahh, the first BPAL oil I ever tried back in 2019 (which I had also apparently bought in October at the time, almost exactly 3 years ago to the day. I guess I tend to think about carnival scents in October) and never reviewed. I, for some reason, destashed this quite some time ago and was talking to a friend of mine about it, and realized, "Hey! That's still available. I should order it again." I already know I love this stuff. It's sweet, it's carnival-y, and it's inspired by Coraline. Yes, yes, and yes.

In bottle: This actually smells slightly different than I remember. There's something almost aquatic in the bottle, which could just be because my previous bottle was aged and this is brand new. It largely smells the same though.

On skin: That strange aquatic tinge is still there, which makes me think they may have reformulated this at some point. I think it's the cotton candy note that's different. I don't get the peanut-y thing as much as I did the first time I had it, and the popcorn is very subtle. This definitely needs to age, because it's really a shadow of what my old bottle was. Definitely not bad, but not how I remember it. There's also a weird plasticky tone to it when it starts to dry down. I'm pretty disappointed.

Verdict: 5 circuses out of 5 for the aged version, 3 for the new version. Hopefully this evens out after a few months.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Hello! Moonalisa had been recommended to me over the last few years numerous times, but I never bothered to place an order since I don't like the FOMO aspect that their shop seems to have. I couldn't resist the Halloween offerings this year though, so we'll see how they are! A friend of mine told me that Moona herself used to be a pastry chef, so I'm very eager to try her gourmand creations. I think that's a really interesting background to have when you're making oils that smell like desserts or other food. I'm hoping they're relatively realistic!

The TAT was listed as 3 weeks, but these shipped out about 10 days after ordering and arrived right on Halloween! This package was the best I've ever received in terms of how well and securely it was put together. All of the oils were wrapped in tissue paper, put into little boxes, and then wrapped again, so there was no way they could move around and leak. There was also a glitter spray included as a gift, along with some brand art and Halloween confetti.

Cauldron Cakes (Cauldron cakes oozing with melted butter, cinnamon, maple and vanilla glaze, crushed nut topping, piping hot cappuccino, a tiny touch of witching mischief)

Preliminary notes: If memory serves, cauldron cakes are a Harry Potter thing (I think). I was a big fan of HP as a kid but haven't really been into it since then. Regardless, this sounds delicious.

In bottle: I get the cake and butter notes right off the bat, followed by the nuts and a bit of the coffee. Something smells vaguely plasticky in there, but it could be the nut note (*see below).

On skin: There's something slightly fruity and powdery in there, and I'm not sure where it's coming from. I get a bit of the cappuccino, maple, and butter but not much else for the first while. I can smell the cappuccino more in the scent cloud around me than directly on my wrist, if that makes sense. I can smell the cinnamon, nuts, and more of the cappuccino the longer it wears.

Verdict: 3.75 ghosts of cappuccinos out of 5. This is very faint on me, and the way it works with my skin chemistry is just bizarre. I like what I can smell, but I think this one might need to age a bit.

Broom Brittle (Smoldering woods blended into a toasted coconut and pumpkin pie crumble, magically transformed into a rich buttery toffee brittle)

Preliminary notes: Smoky/woody gourmands are fantastic, and I LOVE toffee notes.

In bottle: I'm getting woods for sure, and some cinnamon and what smells like a tiny bit of citrus. No coconut, pumpkin, or toffee.

On skin: Definitely has cinnamon in it, as I'm amping it to hell and back. It's a dry cinnamon, like a cinnamon stick, and not candy-like at all. I'm also getting something nutty, but it's not the coconut. I don't get any pumpkin pie, toffee, or anything buttery when it's wet. It's just a dry, spicy cinnamon explosion. If I try really hard, I can kind of smell a bit of pumpkin pie and coconut about an hour in, but still no toffee. I don't get any smoldering woods either.

Verdict: 3.75 cinnamon factories out of 5. I like cinnamon, but I was hoping for more than a cinnamon single-note with this. Skin chemistry/scent perception sucks sometimes, and it's not a fault of the actual product.

Caramel Apple (Rich gooey buttery caramel and slightly spiced baked warm apples)

Preliminary notes: I didn't think I wanted to smell like caramel apples until I tried Fyrinnae's Autumn in Avalon, and now that it's discontinued (to my knowledge), I'd like to have a somewhat suitable replacement. I'm not looking for a dupe, but just something in the same vein.

In bottle: What it says on the tin, really. The apple note smells more like a Granny Smith than a red apple, which is gently spiced and baked. The caramel is fairly faint, but it's definitely there.

On skin: This is definitely a baked scent, as opposed to a cooled down caramel apple. The apple is nice and bright, the spices are subtle, and the caramel is very warm. It leans a smidge Christmas-y, but I'm okay with that. It kind of smells like there's some sort of crumble topping on it, which is really interesting.

Verdict: 4.5 apple desserts covered in caramel out of 5.

Pumpkin Batter (Toasty bread, pumpkin puree, warm Autumn spices, vanilla frosting, creamy caramel, juicy raisins)

Preliminary notes: So I realized after the fact, going off of the description, that this is more of a pumpkin bread scent than a pumpkin puree scent, but that's okay.

In bottle: Oh, that bread note is amazing. I get the spices and raisins as well, and something slightly plasticky again (*see below). I can smell the frosting as well, which smells photorealistic and delicious.

On skin: I mean, it smells like pumpkin bread with raisins in it. It's pretty straightforward, but it's delicious. The spices don't amp, fortunately. I get a bit of the frosting note, but it's mostly about the pumpkin bread.

Verdict: 5 loaves of pumpkin bread out of 5.

Twisted Carnival #2 (Buttery toffee crusted marshmallows and strawberry jam topped funnel cakes)

Preliminary notes: You know me and my affinity for carnival scents. The jam note gives me a bit of pause, but the rest sounds delightful.

In bottle: This is so well blended that my nose is having a hard time deciphering everything. I can for sure smell the strawberry jam, which does indeed smell like jam and not fresh strawberries (which is fine by me, as I don't really like fruity scents), and I can definitely smell the toffee. The funnel cake note is a bit shy here, but then again, the toffee and jam are STRONG, so I'm not surprised. Something about this kind of smells like apple pie or apple crumble.

On skin: Cinnamon. Nothing but cinnamon, which is 100% my skin chemistry, since I amp it. I get a slight doughy note underneath that, but the toffee, marshmallow, and jam are hidden by a very strong cinnamon sugar note. It does smell relatively carnival-y, like cinnamon sugar mini donuts, so I'm not mad about it. Once it's on the skin for 1-2 hours, the cinnamon backs off a bit, and the toffee finally has a chance to come out. This one goes through several interesting phases.

Verdict: 4 buckets of cinnamon sugar donuts out of 5.

Wicked Apple (Buttery toffee apple crunch with a wicked bend of amber)

Preliminary notes: Shocker, another caramel-adjacent apple scent. I didn't realize that most of these had butter or buttery notes until after I started drafting this review. I might like gourmands just a little bit.

In bottle: That apple note is potent, but it's fantastic. It does indeed smell like toffee apples. Very warm, very gooey.

*I realized while smelling this one that the weird plasticky undertone I was getting from some of these was actually the labels! They smell like plain candle wax, and I guess I was getting cross-scents from that.

On skin: The same apple note from Caramel Apple, but not baked this time. It's like 95% apple with a tiny bit of toffee and amber underneath it initially. It eventually calms down a bit, and more of the supporting notes come out. This is very heavy on the apple itself, which is a very crisp, tart apple note. Not quite a caramel apple scent, but close.

Verdict: 4 baskets full of apples out of 5. I was hoping for more toffee, but it does come out more once it dries down a bit. This will be fantastic during autumn next year.

Sleepy Hallow (Smoldering seasoned oakwood fires, warmed leather, roasted spiced pumpkin flesh, smoldering marshmallows)

Preliminary notes: I'm a huge fan of Deep Midnight's oakwood fire note, and while no two house's notes are the same, it gives me great hope for this one. I'm also a sucker for a good toasted marshmallow note.

In bottle: Oh, god yes. The oakwood fire note is perfection, and all of the other notes marry beautifully with it. The marshmallows actually smell toasted! Toasted marshmallow notes never smell toasted to me, so I'm counting that as a miracle. The leather is fairly soft and doesn't smell like a jacket or the interior of a car.

On skin: Virtually the same as in the bottle, but warmer. It's just skirting the line of being a gourmand but never fully gets there. It's atmospheric for sure, and very appropriate for fall/Halloween. The wood note goes almost oud-y on me, which I'm not a fan of, but the marshmallow and pumpkin notes are fantastic. I also smell a bit of cinnamon in there.

Verdict: 4 fiery jack o'lanterns being thrown down a covered bridge out of 5.

Coconut Pumpkin Latte (Steamy, roasted coffee with creamy coconut milk, topped with sweet whipping cream, sprinkled with a touch of spice)

Preliminary notes: The note lineup kind of reminds me of Balefire Apothecary's Midnight Cackle, but I'm hoping this one is balanced a bit better.

In bottle: Okay, so Moona's coffee note is excellent. I get a bit of the coconut milk, whipped cream, and spices. I don't think there's an actual pumpkin note in this, so I'm assuming the spices are pumpkin pie spices. It's creamy, a bit spicy, and very coffee-heavy. DH is going to love this one.

On skin: A coffee scent that actually smells like coffee! This smells like a cup of dark roast coffee with a touch of coconut milk and some gentle spices. No pumpkin, but then again, pumpkin isn't listed as a note. This is delicious and cozy. Good throw and longevity. DH loves this one.

Verdict: 5 steaming cups of coconut-flavored coffee out of 5.

Where's My Pie (Pie crust, cinnamon, pumpkin, carrot, caramel, clove, nutmeg, pecan)

Preliminary notes: Carrot isn't a note I see a lot, so that's interesting. This kind of sounds like Thanksgiving.

In bottle: This is very interesting. On first sniff, I get the carrot, caramel, and something that smells like apples. I get a bit of the pecan and pumpkin if I try a bit harder, and something akin to lemon zest peeks out from underneath. I did not expect the carrot and pecan to be the strongest notes in this, but I'm not complaining. It smells delicious.

On skin: I still get that hidden apple note in there. This is delicious. Lots of spice, but also lots of pie fillings of all different varieties, and a bit of a buttery pastry note. It's very warm and cozy. Later in the drydown, this smells uncannily like pumpkin cookies smothered in cream cheese icing.

Verdict: 5 towering piles of pies out of 5.

Swirly Pop (Sweet orange EO, caramel, vanilla, spun sugar)

Preliminary notes: So my partner and I were watching DreamWorks Spooky Stories for the first time in mid-October, and one of the episodes featured a special candy called a Swirly Pop. I messaged Moona about it and asked if that was the inspiration for the scent, thinking it was a shot in the dark, but it turns out that assumption was correct. She had said she created the scent after watching that episode for the first time with her son years ago, which is really sweet. It made me that much more excited to have it arrive in the mail. I had no idea about that association until after I'd already ordered it.

In bottle: Orange candy. A LOT of orange candy, which makes perfect sense given the inspiration for the scent. It smells pretty much exactly how I'd assume a swirly pop from Spooky Stories would smell. I don't usually like fruity scents, but something about this one is very nostalgic. Orange suckers were my favorite kind growing up, and this is a dead ringer for them.

On skin: This was the first one in this batch that I tried on the skin, since they arrived on Halloween and it just seemed appropriate. First off, WOW, these pack a punch. The texture of the oil is very thin, and it absorbed almost instantly instead of taking a few minutes to soak in. When I was moving everything into the bedroom after the initial in-bottle impressions, I could smell this in a cloud around me.

In regard to the scent itself, it's virtually the same as in the bottle but the orange calms down a tiny bit and gives the other notes a chance to play. I can smell the caramel and spun sugar now, and they play off of the sweet orange in a very nostalgic, cheery way. I think I might have to wear this on days where I'm not feeling great mentally, because it instantly made me happy when I smelled it for the first time.

Verdict: 5 bags full of nostalgic orange candy out of 5. For someone who doesn't like fruity scents, I adore this so much. I'm so glad I tried it.

No Witches on a Crackling Fire! (A berry rich type of smoldering wood. A very realistic outdoor camping fire with that kind of sweet wet smolder in the damp morning woods)

Preliminary notes: I'm not super crazy about berry notes (save for blackberry), but smoky outdoorsy scents always get me. I'm hoping the berry note is fairly dark and not a raspberry or strawberry.

In bottle: "Realistic outdoor camping fire" is right. This is one of the most realistic campfire scents I've smelled. I don't get any fruity notes in the bottle. It's all burning wood, smoke, and a bit of damp air.

On skin: This leans a bit into BBQ territory, but I personally like intense smoke notes, so I'm not bothered by it. The berry note comes out a very small amount on the skin, but it's mostly smoke.

Verdict: 4 campfires out of 5.

Maple Kettle Corn (Vermont maple dousing freshly popped corn ending with a sugar crunch finish)

Preliminary notes: I mean.. do I even really need to say anything about this one?

In bottle: Yesss. All of the notes are present in the bottle, and there's a very slight fruitiness in there as well. It could just be part of the sugar crunch accord though, since it doesn't smell like any fruit in particular.

On skin: This is a weird one on my for the first minute or two. It smells almost minty, but the mintiness goes away fairly quickly. The maple is very strong, but I can smell the popcorn behind it, which is warm and heavenly. As it dries down, it smells like hot caramel corn, and the popcorn note strongly reminds me of the one from Alkemia's County Fair, which is one of my favorite carnival gourmands. It has very low throw compared to the other ones I'd skin tested at this point.

Verdict: 4 popcorn balls dripping in maple syrup out of 5.

Ghoul School Cupcakes (Moist caramelized vanilla cake, sweet coffee buttercream frosting, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, a touch of tonka and maple)

Preliminary notes: I have yet to try a vanilla cake note that actually smells like cake, so we'll see how this goes.

In bottle: The coffee buttercream comes off as almost savory upon first sniff, but everything gets sweeter the more I smell it. This is a pretty heavily-spiced cake scent.

On skin: I get the coffee buttercream for sure, and of course because there's cinnamon in this, I'm amping it and everything else disappears. After the cinnamon calms down, I get some of the maple and cake, which does smell relatively realistic. Later on, it's a caramelized cake scent with a tiny bit of maple. This is a very buttery, slightly spicy gourmand.

Verdict: 4.25 Halloween cakes smothered in coffee buttercream frosting out of 5.

Crone's Cottage (Smoking embers, delicious cakes and breads baking, hanging bushels of botanicals and herbs)

Preliminary notes: I've tried a few "witch's cottage" type scents over the years, but they've all been either too herbal or not foody enough for me. There's a very fine line between too much and too little for this concept, but I'm still tryin'.

In bottle: Ooo, okay. Right off the bat, this is already my favorite "witch's cottage" type of scent. Similarly-themed scents from other houses that I've tried have missed the mark for me, but this nails it on the head. The smoking embers smell like oakwood, and there's some savory baked goods dusted with soft herbs.

On skin: Pumpkin! Lots and lots of pumpkin puree. I smell something that almost smells like frankincense beneath that, which I'm assuming is some kind of lemony herb since there aren't any resins listed. I smell some cinnamon trying to eclipse everything, which it soon does for a brief moment. More of the herbs come out after a few minutes, and that lovely pumpkin puree note comes back. I don't get any bread or cake notes, but I am in love with that pumpkin note, so I'm not even mad at it. For me, this smells like lightly spiced pumpkin puree (aside from the cinnamon amping, which is just my skin), frankincense, and gentle herbs. I don't get any smoke or burning wood either.

Verdict: 4.5 jumbo cans of pumpkin puree out of 5. I could do without the cinnamon bonanza, but such is my general experience with it. After that calms down, this is lovely and delectable.

Haunted Home (Woods, herbs, resins, a touch of spice)

Preliminary notes: A scent that's inspired by the Haunted Mansion ride? Yes, please. I've never been to a Disney park, but I've always been fascinated by the Haunted Mansion.

In bottle: This is interesting. I get something lemony, which I'd wager is probably frankincense, given the description, followed by what smells like old wood (in a good way), and a bit of non-offensive lavender. It smells cold, and appropriately enough, haunting.

On skin: There is definitely, definitely lavender in this. It's not astringent or soapy though, so it's not bad. There's something that smells like pine needles or menthol (something camphorous) as well. It smells like a forest after a good snowfall shortly after application, which is not at all what I was expecting. There's something very slightly sweet underneath that, but I have no idea what it is, as the camphorous quality of whatever notes are in here overshadows it. I get something that smells similar to gingerbread briefly, and then more of the non-camphorous woods come out. I get a little bit of the resins after that stage, and then it just kind of disappears altogether.

Verdict: 3.75 wintry woodlands out of 5. I like this scent, but the longevity leaves a lot to be desired, which could just be my skin. Take that with a grain of salt.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Greetings! As it says on the tin, most of these were upsized from samples. I had a very.. interesting experience with Au Lait, which you'll see later in the post.

Pi in the Sky (Warm apple pies rising heavenward on effervescent billows of spiced aldehydes)

Preliminary notes: This was an upsize of a previous free sample. I never would have chosen this as a sample for myself, given that I hate aldehydic notes, but once I tried it, I upsized it shortly after.

In bottle: Yup, that's apple pie and spices, alright. I don't get the weird fizzy/soapy thing that aldehydes typically give me, which is good.

On skin: This is a cinnamon BOMB. I do get some apples here and there, which are a bit syrupy, but it's primarily cinnamon. DH referred to it as an apple pie with a ton of cinnamon hearts or Red Hots in the filling, which I can agree with. It reads as Christmas-y to DH and I, which is comforting and nostalgic. I don't get the aldehydes at all really (which I'm not complaining about).

Verdict: 5 cinnamon heart apple pies out of 5. Even though this is borderline a cinnamon single note in various phases of wear, I love it. It's festive and warm, and something about it is cozy. Kudos to Alkemia for including this in a previous order, because as I had previously stated, I never would have tried this (and upsized it) otherwise.

Les Mysteres (Aged frankincense, black figs, labdanum, dark amber, Russian tea)

Preliminary notes: This was an upsize of a previous free sample. I had requested this as a free sample in a previous order along with Aelfscyne (which I probably won't review on its own, but it's a sweet, white-green floral with a bit of a weird undertone). I've been buying from Alkemia for 4 years and had somehow skimmed over this one numerous times. I love Alkemia's frankincense and tea notes, so I couldn't tell you why. Either way, had the sample and loved it.

In bottle: Alkemia's frankincense note is immediately at the forefront, but there's also something mellow and almost herbal.

On skin: I adooore this. The frankincense isn't super loud on the skin, and the tea and figs come out and dance together beautifully. DH thought he could smell basil in it, but I think it's the tea note, which does smell very fresh and.. well, leafy. This is very witchy and would make a great fall-to-winter transition scent.

Verdict: 5 transitions from autumn to winter out of 5.

Veneficium (Wild ginger, purple hyacinths, datura accord, green ivy, nightshade leaf, wet oakmoss, tonka, freshly turned earth, dark galbanum)

Preliminary notes: This was an upsize of a previous free sample. The funny thing about this scent is that I had requested a sample of it earlier in the year, didn't like it, and then ended up with a random free sample of it later in the year and loved it. It's literally the exact same scent, but apparently there was something weird going on with my nose the first time.

In bottle: Very green and purple, and a bit tart.

On skin: This reminds me of an old Sixteen92 oil that I used to love called Aconitum. It's not a dead ringer for it, but it's a purple-green scent with an odd floral edge. I can't tease apart a lot of the notes since it's so well blended, but I can make out the ivy, nightshade leaf (which reads as tomato leaf), some of the oakmoss, purple florals, and the freshly turned earth. It smells like a witch's herb and flower garden after a light rain.

Verdict: 5 witchy gardens out of 5.

Au Lait (Rich, creamy milk, tonka, wild honey, caramelized brown sugar)

Preliminary notes: Ah, this scent. It seems to be very polarizing. People either love it or hate it. I've had good experiences with Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Matin Calin and Chabaud's Lait Concentré, which both have similar reputations for either smelling great or smelling like baby vomit/curdled milk, so I have hope. Lactonic notes don't usually go bad on me. I'm still very anxious to open the bottle though.

In bottle: I'm so scared to open this. Okay, I did it. It largely smells like very buttery sweetened condensed milk. It's a bit tart, but not sour. Very curious and worried to see what this does on the skin.

On skin: Unfortunately, this went straight to cheddar cheese the second it hit my skin. God damnit. No sweetness, no caramelized goodness, just cheese.

Verdict: 0 blocks of cheddar cheese in milk carton costumes out of 5.

Hygge Alchemy (Applewood, green pumpkin, fallen oak leaves, candied ginger, autumn spicecakes, golden amber, dark patchouli, vetiver root, tobacco leaf)

Preliminary notes: I placed this order in October and asked them not to send the monthly alchemy for that month, since I already had it, and they included this instead!

In bottle: I get the applewood, ginger, and maybe a bit of patchouli but not much else that's discernible. It does smell fairly cozy and autumnal.

On skin: I mean this in the best way possible: this smells like autumn potpourri. It's very perfumey but smells elegant and upscale at the same time. The ginger is STRONG in this one, which I'm not a huge fan of, but the other notes ground it enough that it's not overwhelming. It's a nice autumn-to-winter transition scent.

Verdict: 4 ginger-scented autumn seasons out of 5.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Release the Bats! (Pumpkin pie, warm apple butter, flaky pastry, caramel drizzle, topped with candy corn sprinkles)

Preliminary notes: I don't even need to say that this sounds amazing, because look at those notes. It sounds like a Halloween dessert explosion.

In bottle: Ohhh, yeah. That's a bunch of food, alright. I get the apple butter and caramel right off the bat (pun partially intended), and a bit of the pumpkin pie and pastry. It's largely apple, spice, and caramel though.

On skin: The one thing I'll always complain about when it comes to Sugar and Spite is how much I need to slather the oils on to actually be able to smell them. They have very little throw, unfortunately. At any rate, the pumpkin pie spices come roaring out of there once the scent hits the skin, followed closely by the apple butter and something sweet (which isn't discernible as either candy corn or caramel at this point). I get a note that almost reminds me of the honey in What's Inside a Girl, which is probably just a conglomeration of everything mixing together. This leans a bit fall candle-y, but I don't mind.

Verdict: 3 Halloween candles out of 5. I don't dislike this at all, but it's a bit generic as far as I'm concerned. The spices are also way stronger than anything else, so instead of being a giant pool of sweetness, it's mostly spice with a bit of sweetness behind it.

Hellsville (Campfire embers, clove leaf, bourbon vanilla, butter cookies, marshmallow fluff, roasted pecans, tonka bean, cedar)

Preliminary notes: I'm very curious about this one. It sounds very earthy, and I'm hoping the campfire note is relatively strong.

In bottle: So funnily enough, I get everything except the campfire. I can smell the butter cookies (which smell similar to the ones in The Chilly Biscuit), the pecan, clove, vanilla, marshmallows, and tonka. I don't get any wood or smoke whatsoever.

On skin: There's kind of an odd lemony thing going on here, which I don't really understand. I suppose it could be part of the butter cookie note. I don't get any campfire bits, or any of the heavier notes. It's just butter cookies, lemon for some reason, marshmallow, and maybe a bit of clove. It smells kind of soapy as well.

Verdict: 3 butter cookie-scented soaps out of 5. This isn't a bad scent, but it's definitely not for me. Womp womp.

These were both flops, unfortunately, but such is life.
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[personal profile] femmenstein
Carnival of Illustrious Hearts (ultime) (French sugarcreams, candied orange blossom, raspberry cotton candy, rosewater torte filling, bourbon vanilla amber)

Preliminary notes: DH picked this out from a deathmatch list of potential wedding scents and said it sounded lovely. I've had my eye on it since it was first released, because it sounds like a cousin of County Fair, minus the fried food and apple notes.

In bottle: Rosy cotton candy with a bit of a citrus bite. This reminds me of something else, but I can't pin what it is. It's one of Alkemia's more mainstream-adjacent scents. It doesn't smell overly gourmand in the bottle.

On skin: This basically smells like All the Sins with the addition of citrus and jammy rose. That's pretty much it. Pink, very candy-like, and sweet.

Verdict: 3.75 candy overloads out of 5. I already have All the Sins (and County Fair, which it's also sort of similar to), so I don't know if I'm going to keep this. It's VERY girly as well, which isn't really my thing.

Auguries of Innocence (ultime) (White ambergris, fresh peaches, sweet clematis accord, orange jessamine, Mexican orange blossom, night-flowering jasmine, pale cashmere)

Preliminary notes: I've heard this described as "elegant peach ring candies," which I'm not super into, but I'm hoping the florals and other notes temper it enough that it's not just straight up candy.

In bottle: Spiced peaches! I don't know where the spice is coming from, but it's there. There are a lot of orange florals in there as well, but I can't pick any of them out specifically. This has an almost jammy quality to it.

On skin: Hm.. the spice is gone on the skin and replaced by soapiness. It's turned into peach-scented floral soap, which I'm not terribly fond of. The peach is also very artificial-smelling on the skin and smells kind of juvenile, like a peach-scented toy you'd give to a young child. Not really into this.

Verdict: 2 peach-shaped soaps out of 5. I had high hopes for this one, but I should know better than to go after fruity florals. They rarely work for me. Off to the destash box it goes.

Femme Sauvage (ultime) (Wild blackberries, voluptuous musk, randy dark patchouli, the warmth of come-hither ambers)

Preliminary notes: This was an upsize from a free sample from ages ago. I already know I love it. The extrait version lasted ages on my skin, so I can only imagine that the ultime is going to last well into a second day.

In bottle: The patchouli is very strong in the ultime version, at least in the bottle. This scent smells similar to several BPALs I've tried before, but I prefer Alkemia's fruit notes.

On skin: Very berry forward but also woodier than the extrait, in my experience. Still very sexy and witchy. I don't actually get any of the patchouli on the skin.

Verdict: 5 witches eating blackberries out of 5.

Amber Witch (Aged dark Arabian amber, honey musk, creamy bourbon caramels, spiced rum)

Preliminary notes: It's been a while since I've bought a rum scent! Mixing rum with caramel and honey just sounds so decadent and delicious.

In bottle: It's surprising to me that there isn't a patchouli note listed, because I swear it's there waaay in the background. Largely though, it's all about the honey musk and caramel. Maybe a tiny bit of rum.

On skin: Still shocked about there not being a patchouli note. I get something kind of bright on the skin, which I'm assuming is a combination of the honey and rum. It reminds me a bit of Caveau des Innocents mixed with Sweet Sorcery. Amber Witch is primarily slightly spiced caramel and a bit of a boozy edge (and hidden patchouli). It's very dry and a bit sweet. There's something a bit fennel-y peeking out from behind everything else as well.

As it dries, it smells remarkably like Caveau but a bit sweeter.

Verdict: 4.25 witches eating spiced caramels spiked with rum out of 5.

Dia de los Muertos (Spiced white cacao, vanilla orchids, confectionary sugar skulls, vetiver root, chrysanthemum, mandarin peel, ziricote wood)

Preliminary notes: Yesss. I have been waiting for Alkemia to either re-release or release a new Dia de los Muertos scent for years, and they finally did it. I'm very, very excited about this one.

In bottle: Another one that reminds me of something else that I can't pinpoint. Wait, no. It reminds me of Deep Midnight's Sweet Calavera, which I guess makes sense. This smells very fresh and airy in the bottle. I get the spiced white cacao, the vetiver, presumably the chrysanthemum, and something green. I quite like this.

On skin: I get the white cacao, some sort of floral note (at this point, I can't tell if it's the orchids, the chrysanthemums, or both since it's very well blended), and something cool and green. I do get sweetness as well, which I'm assuming is the sugar skull note. I don't get any of the mandarin peel, vetiver, or wood. The mandarin peel comes out a tiiiny bit a few hours in, but it's very faint. It still reminds me of Deep Midnight's Sweet Calavera, but this is drier and not quite as sweet.

Verdict: 4.5 skulls wearing flower crowns out of 5.

Kitten and the Falling Leaves (Soft, sleek fur romping through dried oak, beech, and maple leaves on a crisp autumn day)

Preliminary notes: So this scent has two descriptions: the original one above, and a more vague description that just mentions warm fur and leaves. I opted for the more descriptive one, because I'd like to actually know which kind of leaves are in there (not that I know what beech leaves smell like anyway, but still).

In bottle: Definitely woodland-y, and also slightly aquatic? I have no idea where that's coming from. I don't get fur or anything animalic from this at all. Instead, it smells like a culmination of forest tree leaves and maybe a bit of water. This, yet again, reminds me of something.

On skin: I think the aquatic aspect is coming from white amber, which might be part of the fur accord. It's got some sweetness to it. The leaves become ever so slightly camphorous upon close sniff, but mostly, it's just a really nice, slightly sweet autumnal leaf scent. It's elegant and refined, and brings to mind images of an elven queen wearing a white gown/robe, wandering through woodlands dotted with trees that have turned orange and yellow and are just about to shed their leaves. Not the kind of mental imagery I was expecting, but definitely not one that I'd complain about, either.

Verdict: 4.25 autumnal elf queens out of 5.

Cidre d'Automne (Freshly pressed varietal fall apples delicately blended with subtle autumnal spices)

Preliminary notes: Ah, yes. I've been wanting an apple cider scent for years and haven't found one that suits the mood yet.

In bottle: Yup, that's apple cider alright. The apple is nice and fresh and not overly artificial.

On skin: Largely the same, though there's a very slight waxy quality to it on the skin. I don't think this is my perfect apple cider scent (nothing has beaten SS's Riverside Hayride yet), but it is quite nice and spicy. "Subtle spices" is kind of inaccurate, at least on my skin. The spices are quite present.

Verdict: 2.75 spicy, slightly plasticky hot apple ciders out of 5. That weird waxy note stays throughout and kind of ruins this for me, unfortunately. I received a sample of Pi in the Sky in one of my orders this month (review coming soon), and I much prefer that for a spicy apple scent that doesn't go waxy/plasticky.

Dusk in Autumn (Amberwood, Lapsang Souchong tea, salted cream caramel, spiced teacakes)

Preliminary notes: This one has been on my radar since it came out, much like others in this review. I love tea notes, I love caramel notes, and I love bakery notes. This should be a hit.

In bottle: This is fairly faint in the bottle. I get something that smells a bit like apple spice and maybe a bit of cake.

On skin: This one is bizarre. I don't know what was going on, but I was borderline anosmic to it as soon as it hit the skin. Once it sat for a while, I could actually smell it. I get smoky, spicy caramel and maybe a tiny bit of tea as it melds with my skin. I will say, this probably has the most true-to-life caramel note out of all the Alkemia scents I've tried with caramel notes in them. It's delicious. It smells like eating soft, gently spiced cakes topped with a heavy caramel drizzle with small cups of tea on the side. The tea comes out more as the oil wears, so it becomes almost like a cup of tea with a spoonful of caramel in it.

Verdict: 4.75 autumnal tea parties out of 5. I'm hoping that weird pseudo-anosmia thing goes away once it ages a bit. Other than that, I adore this. It's a lovely, caramel-heavy autumnal gourmand.

Autumnalis (Sunlight-warmed autumn leaves, maple wood, wild morel fungi, silver birch tar, slightly soapy wood musk, crushed hayscent ferns, autumn crocus saffron, dry golden amber, dried oakmosses, a touch of vetiver root)

Preliminary notes: My first review of Autumnalis was in 2018, and all I remember about it was that it was pretty soapy. I remember liking it a lot, though. I needed something to fill out the 3 for $45 extrait deal, and I figured I'd try this again and see how it fits my tastes now.

In bottle: Not nearly as soapy as I remember! It really is an olfactive picture of an autumn day in a forest clearing.

On skin: So while this is soapy, it's not the kind of soapy that I usually hate. It really does smell like sunbeams pouring through the trees in a forest during autumn. I don't get the fungi note, but I get just about everything else. It's lovely and comforting. If you like Feuillemort, you might like this if you can handle the soapy quality.

Verdict: 5 autumnal forests dappled with sunlight (and a few soap bubbles) out of 5. I loved this years ago, and I love it now. Sometimes smelling like soap isn't such a bad thing.

Smoke & Mirrors (Burning wood, Madagascar vanilla, tonka)

Preliminary notes: I already know I love this. This was just a repurchase of a very old bottle that's now past its prime, but I realized I'd never properly reviewed it before.

In bottle: I mean, what you see is what you get with this one. It's burning wood, smoke, and vanilla/tonka. It's fairly simple, but very effective and evocative of real bonfires.

On skin: Smoky, vanillic goodness. The last bottle of this that I had was more smoke-heavy, but it had also aged a few years, so I'm hoping the same happens with this. This new bottle is more woody, but the smokiness is still there.

Verdict: 5 vanilla-scented bonfires out of 5.

Calaveras de Azucar (Hauntingly sweet sugar skulls nestled against a backdrop of sugared white ambers)

Preliminary notes: This was a no-brainer. I love things centering around Dia de los Muertos, I love sweet scents, and I love Alkemia's white amber note.

In bottle: White amber, white amber, and more white amber. There's a dry sweetness underneath it, and maybe a tiiiiny bit of a smoky tinge.

On skin: The same white amber from Ghost Fire and The Magpie's Rhyme but with added sweetness and something that's a tiny bit sharp. The sharpness smells almost green, despite there not being any green notes listed. There's a very faint, almost spicy note in there as well.

Verdict: 4 sugar skulls out of 5. I'm curious to see how this one ages in regard to the surprise spice/green notes in there.

Trick or Treat (Black licorice, mandarin orange peel, caramelized brown sugar, bourbon vanilla, candied ginger, tonka bean, blonde patchouli, cedar tips, oakmoss, sandalwood)

Preliminary notes: So this was part of Alkemia's Halloween gift bag, and in looking at past notes, I apparently disliked it. I have no recollection of smelling it, so we'll see how my tastes have changed.

In bottle: Well, I can say right away that I don't understand why I didn't like this years ago (though I received my initial sample in a swap, and it was very obviously old, so it may have gone bad by that point). I get the patchouli and mandarin peel right off the bat, and maybe a touch of oakmoss. No licorice or anything sweet.

On skin: Okay, so. I either had a bad sample years ago, or my tastes have changed astronomically, because this is lovely. It's still mostly mandarin and patchouli, but I get some of the licorice and caramelized brown sugar as well. Something about it smells relatively mainstream, which isn't surprising for an Alkemia scent (which isn't a bad thing). The orange gives it a bit of a Christmas feel as well, which is something that DH had mentioned when he smelled it too. I'm not super into wearing citrus scents, but the mandarin peel note blends so well into the patchouli that it's actually kind of magical. Before I'm finished with the orange, it morphs into patchouli, which then morphs into something else. This is a very well-blended scent. It's a delightful, earthy, unisex fall-into-winter scent. I may have to get the ultime version in the future.

Verdict: 4.75 trick or treating excursions out of 5.

All Hallow's Eve Alchemy (Freshly toasted vanilla marshmallows, black licorice, candied fennel seeds, smoky caramel amber, brown sugar pralines, tonka, benzoin resin, copper distilled patchouli)

Preliminary notes: I have two of the previous All Hallow's Eve scents (2020 and 2021. I had 2019 at one point as well), and I'm curious to how this compares.

In bottle: This smells.. boozy? I don't get any sweet or smoky notes from this at all in the bottle, and I have no idea what smells like booze in here. I get a bit of the licorice/fennel if I try really hard, but mostly booze.

On skin: This is relatively heavy on the patchouli and licorice/fennel. I can make out a bit of the amber and maybe a tiny bit of the marshmallows, but this is in no way a marshmallow-forward scent. It's more similar to AHE 2021 than it is to 2020 but they're still very different. This one is smokier and spooky. Weirdly enough, this also kind of reminds me of Caveau des Innocents a little bit.

Verdict: 4 foreboding Halloween nights out of 5.

Comparison to All Hallow's Eve 2020 and 2021: 2020 is heavy on the bonfire and smoke notes for me. There's a bit of sweetness, but it's mostly a bonfire scent. 2021 is more about the sugary notes (specifically marshmallow) but still relatively smoky.

Holly and Ivy (Tonka, cashmere, balsam pine needles, sugarplums, clove-studded citrus pomanders, roasted apples and black figs, winter roses, anisette, burning bayberry candles, gentleman's pipe tobacco, soft suede)

Preliminary notes: I asked for this instead of September's monthly alchemy, since I don't like pear or quince notes.

In bottle: You know what I'm gonna say. This reminds me of something else, again. I think it's Woods on a Snowy Evening this time, which was my first ever Alkemia scent and is still one of my favorites. The pine needles are very aromatic, and I can't smell anything beneath them at all in the bottle, so it's basically Woods on a Snowy Evening Part 2 in there.

On skin: Basically Woods on a Snowy Evening Part 2 still. I get a very small amount of apple or some other fruit on the end of the inhale, but it's very pine-heavy, which I don't have a problem with. As it dries down, the pine backs off a bit, and some of the fruit notes come forward. I don't get any of the heavier notes, but the tobacco comes out a tiny, tiny bit once it's fully dried down. It also goes through a phase where it smells like berry-scented candles (which makes sense, though I don't know what bayberry smells like). This scent is quite a morpher.

Verdict: 4.25 Christmas trees out of 5. This is a really interesting scent, and I'm sure it'll get a lot of use during the holiday season.

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DISCLAIMER

*All products mentioned were purchased by me unless otherwise stated.

*All photos and graphics used are my own unless otherwise stated.

c. Jan 2, 2019.

*Update 06/01/2025:* Given the tumultuous situation between the US and Canada right now including tariffs, reviews after the ones listed below are on hold indefinitely. It doesn't feel safe to purchase oils from the States anymore without the anxiety of potentially getting slammed with extra fees, so I won't be purchasing any for a while. I may explore Canadian companies at some point, but for now, I'm on an indefinite hiatus (minus the reviews below, which are all ready to post. I just have to stop being lazy about it).

UPCOMING REVIEWS

🥀 Alkemia 🥀

Angel's Kitchen
Hexenhausen
Rosa Alchemica
Foxfire
Viridis Arcanum
Surcie
Slice of Heaven Alchemy
Vanille Single Note
Winter Forest Alchemy
Taste of Rain
Attar al Oud
Bibliotheca
Baccante
Green Carnation
Sadzi
Moon Lust
Affaire de Coeur
Carmen 7
Silver Sky
Luminae (2025 revisit review)
Rose Rouge Layering Note
Gilded Alchemy
Deus Ex Machina
Haunted & Bewitched
Love Flight of a Candy Heart
Earthlight
Ecstasies of Light
Honored Ghosts
Come to Me
Ambre Gris (2025 revisit review)
Vert sur le Vert (2025 revisit review)
Lilacs Along the Winding Drive (2025 revisit review)
Siren's Spell
The Lady's Yes
The Lover Tells of the Rose (2025 revisit review)
Love Among the Ruins
Rose Musk
Persian Tea Room (2025 revisit review)
Pheromone P28
Arcanum Experiments 2023: 6, 7, 14, and 15
Ambre Aquae
Memoirs of a Woman of Pleasure
Arcanum Experiments 2024: 9: Getting Lit
A Roll in the Hay (2025 revisit review)
Tulips & Chimneys
Novella
Caliph's Beloved
Candybox Alchemy


(Also attempting to review everything in my collection that hasn't been reviewed yet, so stay tuned for From the Vault posts)

CREDITS

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